Home to the golden temple, we were in Amritsar for a number of reasons. First of all, we were heading north so it kind of fell into our route, but mainly because the golden temple is just gorgeous and well worth a visit. We rolled up into Amritsar off a torturous 16 hour overnighter from Agra and were welcomed by monsoon rains in full force. Since it was early we nipped into a restaurant and grabbed some breakfast before trying to negotiate the 1.8km walk to our hotel. Since Amritsar is a complete dump the roads were flooded and so we needed to jump in a rickshaw. Seeing we had kids, and bags and looked exhausted we naturally got ripped off on the fare, and it must have been by a fair bit as the driver laughed to himself pretty much the whole way. The hotel we had booked “Backpackers…