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SE Asia

Krabi, Ao Nang and Railay

Hiking to Railay viewpoint with kids
Rain in Krabi province
Ao Nang in monsoon

The great thing about Thailand is that is really does have something for everyone. Those seeking luxury resorts head to Ko Samui, those seeking sweaty sex at $20 a pop head to Bangkok, those seeking hedonism bounce over to Ko Phangan, those looking for a joint and a reason to find themselves whilst humming away in some impossible yoga pose head up to Chiang Mai, Russians head to Phuket and old British men looking to spunk away their pension on questionable girls/boys head to Pattaya. Wheras backpackers head to Ao Nang and the Krabi. Thailand offers a whole lot more, but the halcyon days of 70’s Thailand are long gone. Memories of hiking for miles to unspoilt slithers of perfection lapped by emerald seas have been replaced by highways cutting through jungles with a few limestone cliffs thrown in for good measure.

Thailand to yourself is gone. Long gone. The sanctimonious ‘gap yahr’ers’ will speak in verbose about how they found paradise and claim they were the first people to ever visit, but the truth is that Thailand is no longer untouched. It is a well fettered paradise tinged with culture and pylons that is being overbuilt year on year.

Slack planning, mass tourism and a drive to fill the pockets of anyone interested has taken over. The result is that Thailand is paradise, but only if you go to the right places. Where that ‘place’ is, is subjective. And how you judge such a place depends on many things. Some people want a thatched hut on an island far away from everyone with little more than monkeys swinging in the trees. Others want pure luxury with all the trimmings. Having travelled the country extensively I recommend Krabi province.

Ao Nang and Krabi are well connected throughout Thailand by land and just 3 hours south of Phuket. Perched against the Andaman sea, the nearest airport is in Krabi, some 25km or 300THB away from Ao Nang. Ao Nang itself is nothing special. A typical Thai coastal town complete with McDonald’s, Tesco-Lotus and market stalls looking to shift their Chang vests for 200 baht each. Ao Nang is is dotted with limestone cliffs, palm trees and an unremarkable beach with a hefty current. What Ao Nang offers, is a jumping off point for a zillion paradisiac islands that would sit comfortably on any postcard.

One concern tourists have when headed to the region is whether to stay in Ao nang or Krabi. Truth is, it doesn’t really matter. Ao Nang is certainly more geared towards the tourists with accommodation spanning every budget, whereas Krabi has a more local flair and one of the regions best night markets.

Anywhere in Ao Nang or Krabi will whip you up a tour that will fulfil your Thai island craving. Snorkelling comes as standard and most boats pack a set for no charge. Fancy riding an elephant, no problem, flash 500 Baht and you’ll be on a pachyderm named chimichanga in no time. A thousand baht will ensure you are zooming around on an ATV like you own the place, 1500 Baht will have you island hopping amongst the Chinese and 2000+ baht will make you the king of the Krabi area.

What is guaranteed is that if you take a tour, any tour, you will not be alone and the dreams of vibrancy rich photographs on an idyllic palm swept Thai island will be short lived. If you want a beach to yourself, limestone cliff in the back ground, camera depth set to soft. If you want rich green palm trees swaying above empty pieces of talcum powder like beaches then ask for it.

Find a local with a boat and a smoke. Tell him you want paradise, then offer him a third of what he asks for.

Must do side trips:

Railay

Railay Beach with kids

If you are coming from Krabi, you’ll pay 150THB each for a long tail over to Railay East, a tiny slither of sand shown on the photo below to the right. This is where the hike to the viewpoint is, just swing a left after getting off the jetty and follow the path round. The walk takes about 15 minutes and is quite easy. Even with kids.

Railay West is where the best beach and most of the restaurants and hotels are. Expect prices almost double what they are else where in the region. If you are coming from Ao Nang you will get ditched here, prices are 200THB per person, each way.

The last boat bails at 6pm. Stingy tourists looking to hike over the mountains are out of luck. Geography and physics make it impossible for all but the most desperate and hardiest of travellers.

Khao Ngorn Nak, aka Dragon Crest Trail

Dragons Crest Trail with kids

This gorgeous hike is just 3.7km long and will have you sweating in no time. Getting there from Ao Nang takes about 30 minutes and is about 400THB each way, dont worry about arranging return transport, this can be done at the trail by the ranger.

We opted to hire a scooter for 200THB and make our own way there.

Sign in at the rangers desk, grab a bottle of water and head off. This is proper jungle, and it feels like the place is alive, vibrant in colour and noise. It is up hill for the first 30 minutes, then levels out slightly, then after the second flight of stairs chills a bit. I am told the average return time is 4hours, with the average ascent taking just over 2 hrs.

We did the scent in 1hr 30mins and was finished after a total 2hrs 45mins. This was in heavy rain meaning we got no view from the summit. But the hike itself is well worth it.

Tiger Cave Temple

A sweaty trundle up 127 steps to a temple atop a limestone cliff. Every bit as leg wearing as you can imagine. This temple can be walked to from Krabi Town, or is just 50THB in one of those truck/taxi things.

The temple is two fold. The one at the bottom, which is pretty and worth a look. Then the one up the stairs. The stairs are a relentless hike upwards, made even more difficult by the continual count on the posts. Personally I would rather not know, and to be reminded every few minutes of how little you’ve actually done is soul destroying. A definite must do if in Krabi, offering up decent views of the bay.

Krabi Night Market

Each weekend a part of Krabi springs to life courtesy of local vendors, street food and live music. The market is famous throughout the region and is a must do for anyone nearby. Stalls sell homemade Thai food from simple noodles and fish to deep fried bugs, pancakes and everything in between. You can buy a number of things, shoot teddies with a BB gun, get a tattoo, or simply enjoy live music with a beer.

Most popular islands around Ao Nang:

Ko Lao Ka: Google images lies. Yes it is picturesque, yes it is gorgeous, but due to the trillion Chinese tourists it is impossible to enjoy. Literally 90% of China descended onto the island during our visit. The waters were murky and even the fish bailed. A stifling realisation that this was not the Thailand we hoped for meant that we bounced shortly after arrival.

Ko Pak Ka: Gorgeous. Arrive early for some stunning shots of one of the countries most beautiful islands. The Chinese descend after lunch so be sure to make this your money shot early on.

Hong Island: Garbage. Touted as being some breathtaking slice of beauty, it is not. Ok, the sea is a lovely colour but the beach literally has a pipe running down the centre of it spewing shit into the place where everyone swims. Tough to get a decent photo due to the remaining 10% of China being here. The nature walk is a contender for the worlds worst nature hike.

Poda Island: Probably the most perfect island in the region. You have to pay 200THB entrance since it is a national park. It is also the only island I have ever been to in Thailand where we have had a gorgeous, white sand beach licked with turquoise waters to ourselves. Long tails were 150THB each way.

Worth a mention…

Ko Phi Phi: Gutted that I didn’t hit this place up years back. A collection of islands, In the 70’s folk swung in hammocks, smoked weed and listened to Bob Marley in probably the most perfectly beautiful place on earth. Clear turquoise seas teeming with angel fish offered respite from the searing heat and those that came for a few days ended up staying weeks and months. Now, Phi Phi offers gorgeous scenery saturated with tourism. No longer the Eden it once was, Phi Phi is now a magnet for everyone seeking perfection in SE Asia and it does still deliver. For how long is anyone’s guess. That said, as of 2018 Maya Bay is now closed to tourists. No one in Ao Nang/Krabi will tell you this.

Islands around Krabi with kids

Thailand is a place that is changing and has been changing ever since the first tourist sipped milk from a coconut, for many it is a paradise lost, but for anyone seeking a well oiled trail through dream like perfection then Thailand is still the place to go. There is of course much more to the country than a town in Krabi, but if you are short on time and innovation, Krabi is the place to make your way to.

I love Thailand, and the Thai people. It is just one of those places where no one really gives much of a shit about anything. The sort of place you can come, relax and not be judged, not be questioned and be whoever or whatever you want to be.

I will continue to bring my family to one of the best places in Asia, filled with some of the warmest, most welcoming people you will ever meet. Arrive in Thailand relaxed, willing to smile, ready to laugh and caked in sun cream and you will likely have one of the best holidays of your life.

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SE Asia

Bangkok

Bangkok with kids

Pumping music, neon lights, ultra modern malls, uber modern technology, a skytrain, metro system, fun seekers looking for a short time or a long time, parties, skyscrapers, backpackers, flashpackers and everyone in between. A hedonistic paradise intertwined with Buddhism, temples, shrines, deities and a firm nod at a stunning history. Oh. And Khao San Road. Bangkok has been tempting foreigners for decades and is now laying stake to being the beating heart of SE Asia. A claim which is hard to deny.

Everything in Bangkok is fake, I’d question even my own mum’s authenticity if she was there. The best malls are the tourist driven MBK mall, a place geared to fleece tourists, but still offering up good prices, for more local prices head to ‘fashion mall’, which might possibly be a portal to China. If you are looking for tech head to ‘Pantip Plaza’ just down the road. Bangkok is the city of giving, if you want something and cant find it. Ask and watch it become instantly available.

Driving in and out of Bangkok is a nightmare, for a large part of the day the city is a traffic jam, but taxis booked through Grab are insanely cheap. I’m talking a 40 minute ride being the equivalent of $5. The metro and skytrain are a gift, but are regularly rammed. Bangkok for all its modernity has yet to come up with a slick way of knocking out tickets and unbelievably, if there is more than one of you, might actually be more expensive than a taxi.

Every tourists should hit up some history.

A great place to start is Wat Rakangkositaram, don’t expect to get a decent photo as there is also every other tourist in Bangkok is there. Then hop on a boat across the river to Wat Phra Chetuphon to see the golden Buddha, an epic sized rendition of Siddhartha himself. Wade through the tourists up to the Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha. Ensure you allow 100 Baht for the fleecing at the entrance, unless your attire conforms. Then, head to one of the many, many street food outlets and get the obligatory salmonella. It’s happened to me. That tasty, moist looking piece of chicken on a stick that has you drooling, will very soon have you on the toilet. For three days. Maybe four.

Bangkok during monsoon

If you are a backpacker then you will likely find yourself on Khao San road. No longer the seed fest it was a few years back. Formally it was a dread lock, mosquito bitten, baggy trousers type place where people were out to meet people, fuelled by alcohol. It is now a boutique style place dotted with a bit of neon and filled with middle class kids that believe air travel was invented for them and that Khao San was designed with their homecoming in mind. Expect vowels to be extenuated and shady looking henna to abound. A reminder that you are still in Thailand is regular thanks to the frequent grey haired, portly British guy with a T shirt way too tight for him, arm in arm with a Thai girl way to young for him. Money talks in Bangkok and opens more than just doors.

Baling Bangkok is easy. Head to 12Go Asia and input your details. Alternatively, find one of the zillion tour operators in the city and continue onwards. You will pay more, have more hassle, and likely hate every second of the journey. But the Thais are good, honest people. If they say they will get you to Ko Samui, they will get you there.

When you consider Bangkok has hotels that cater for every budget, restaurant and food vendors that wing out food for as little as a few pence, a 7-Eleven on every other corner and a Family Mart on those in between, it has cinemas, world class malls, and an access to everything any human on earth could ever want. It is ninja cheap to get around, is brimming with history and has a fab climate. It is hated by many, and loved by so many more. Though all things considered. It might just be the best city on earth for backpackers. In fact. It probably is.

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South Asia

Kolkata self guided walking tour

India’s second largest city, home to 14 million people and like no where else on the subcontinent. Though still typically India, dirty streets, constant blasts of horns, spit marks everywhere, non existent traffic rules, gridlocked roads and extreme poverty. Kolkata mixes things up a little differently with colonial era buildings, leafy parks and a few traffic lights.

The majority of visitors that have arrived by land will get off at the huge Howrah Junction terminal. For the city itself, hop on a ferry outside and nip over to the pier closest to your hotel. Taxis are everywhere, and despite laws requiring them to use their meter, and despite each one having painted on the side ‘no refusal’, it is virtually impossible to get a driver to use their meter, and, refusals are more common place and than acceptance.

Accommodation is very expensive by India standards, something which hasn’t quite affected standards. Cheap dives can be found on Sudder street, just down the road from the Indian museum.

Whilst in Kolkata I decided to write a list of all the places I wanted to go, and then walk it. And that is what we did, so here is my…

Kolkata walking tour:

Start/End: Rabnindra Sadan Metro station

Difficulty: Other than usual India roadside dangers and heat, the walk was easy.

Time: Full day

Nehru Children’s museum

Quirky, and all things considered a complete waste of time. Just a display of dolls and a few sculptures, but proceeds from the admission go to children’s charities in the city.

Victoria memorial

Gorgeous building set in unimpressive grounds. Typical scam in that all foreigners, including kids above aged 3 must pay an extortionate 500INR for entrance to the museum, or just 10INR to mooch around the grounds.

Continue on to Fort William and then Dalhousie barrack, before walking up the riverside to Eden Garden, one of the worlds most famous cricket grounds. Off the corner is Raj Bhavan which is invitation only, but good place to nab a few photographs. Heading back towards the river, pass the High Court and the Banking Museum (we didn’t go in). Just up the road you can either walk through millennium park, which clearly hasn’t been touched by a brush, or lick of paint since the millennium, or continue up the road past the Prince of Wales visit Memorial. Swing back on the inside towards the Cathedral of the Holy Rosary and Armenian church.

Mullick Ghat flower market is just beneath Howrah bridge, we walked up and across the bridge, back to the ferry port by Howrah junction and the hitched a boat back over the river to Babughat.

We strolled back over towards the Indian Museum which we opted not to go into due the crazy foreigner prices which again would’ve fleeced me $30 for me and three kids. We continued down to the Planetarium but the missed the English showing which was at 1.30pm. Continuing down we then found ourselves at St Pauls Cathedral, had a look around and then finished our day back where we had started.

This walking tour does not take in Mother Theresa’s places, so either head up there with a taxi, or save them for another day.

Walking in India is an art in itself.

But I genuinely believe the best of India is seen this way. Comfortable footwear, plenty of water and a large does of tolerance is all you need. Well, and Google maps saved offline on your mobile phone.

Howrah bridge Kolkata
Categories
South Asia

Varanasi

Boat ride in Varanasi

The holiest city in India, oldest continually habited city on earth, and probably the dirtiest place you will ever go, Varanasi, a city straddling the mighty Ganges is a blitz on the senses and far more intense than even the most committed guidebook will have you believe.

Depending on the time of the year you visit, will largely depend upon how you feel about Varanasi. Visit in winter and the Ganges is low meaning you can stroll along the ghats, watch cremations, cricket games, swimming, fishing and a myriad of other activities occupying the lives of locals and pilgrims. Visit during summer/monsoon and the Ganges will be of epic proportions flooding the ghats and making a visit worthwhile, but less rich. This was our third time in the city, visit 1 and visit 2 are linked accordingly.

People come to Varanasi to bathe in the Ganges which washes away a lifetime of sins, I have it on good authority that in fact it is heavily polluted and sceptic in many places. People also come to Varanasi to die and then be cremated on Ghats on the banks of the Ganges.

Watching someone you never knew have their existence removed from earth by means of fire, it’s odd. Almost obtrusive.

Taking photographs is disrespectful and a quick way to escalate an otherwise peaceful situation.

Varanasi is a city you will either loathe, or love. Dividing of opinion, the length of your stay will also likely sway your judgement. The best of Varanasi is located within the old city which is a labyrinth of alleyways populated by pilgrims, lots of pilgrims, cows and faeces. If you are a germaphobe give this place a miss, brutal temperatures ensure you are covered in sweat and both animals and humans empty their bowels in the tiny, stone lined alleyways. Though traffic is banned from the old city you can still expect to see people whizzing around on their scooters and causing chaos. Cyclists also attempt to meander the maze, few have bells or any way to warn you of their imminence. You can most certainly overstay in the city. Tolerance very quickly becomes frustration, 3 days for me is enough.

The old city is a collection of ghats, temples and an amazing place in which to watch self sufficiency. Tools, machines and methods of craftsmanship all but forgotten are still in use. Homestay’s with local families abound and are amongst some of the cheapest in India, 1000INR will bag you a double AC room. Bed only in a dorm is around 250INR.

The best of Varanasi is seen on foot.

We walked through the streets to Assi Ghat, which is the furthest south of the old city ghats, grabbed lunch at the fabulous Aum cafe, then meandered our way along the ghats back to Vishwanath temple. We took a boat ride, these can be got for 50INR per person in a shared boat, or around 300INR for the whole boat for 30 minutes. There are innumerable shrines, temples and places worthy of a visit. Vishwanath is the highlight, tourists can avoid the queue (some pilgrims queue for up to 48hrs), and head straight to gate 2. No bags, or electronics are allowed. Register your passport at the police desk just inside and enter the temple. Foreigners are not allowed inside the actual gold domed temple. Less for the beauty, but more for the significance of this temple built in 1776 and dedicated to Vishveswara-Shiva, lord of the universe. It is apparently plated with 800kg of gold. Hence the large number of security forces in the area.

Keeping kids clean in Varanasi is an endless, somewhat impossible task. We opted for trousers, copious use of hand wash and carried a bar of soap for temple visits so we could wash our feet. In hindsight I wish we had put our boots on, but the mercury was nudging at 40C and we were already sweltered.

Rail travel in India with kids

Leaving Varanasi is painless as the city is well connected by rail. At the station look for a large brown, inconspicuous looking door on the left hand side as you walk into the main hall. Buy tickets, or relax in the large lounge waiting for your train. Somewhat unbelievably there are also showers available for use.

Categories
South Asia

Khajuraho

Khajuraho with kids

I first visited Khajuraho some years ago, just after the first rail link to the town had been built. At the time it was a quiet place, reached only by hardened travelers willing to take on bus travel and a hefty, bumpy journey across the north. My previous post talks about how the place is leafy, empty, free of hassle and all but abandoned…… Oh how things have changed.

Stepping out of the rickshaw having traveled from Chatrapur 500INR we were instantly accosted. People telling us we needed tickets, guides, offers of rickshaws, restaurants, hotels, books and fake gold. The scams were instant, and neatly weaved with careful half truths. I had booked a hotel at the Happy House Home-stay based on the very high rating on Booking.com and trip adviser. Expecting to be led to the Home-stay I was to be met with the oldest scam in travel history. The classic “there is a problem at the property so I have found you somewhere else” scam. Turns out, having walked to the Home-stay that it didn’t even exist. The reviews are completely fake and just a ruse to scam unsuspecting tourists to opt to take the alternative accommodation at a higher price.

That was how our trip to Khajuraho started, was the theme throughout, and as we were leaving.

Gone are the quiet streets, gone are the vibes, the train-line has ushered in an era of relentless hassle, aggression, dirt, scams and the worst of our time in India.

Though visitors come for the temples showing kamasutra, yoga and a relaxing walk around the countryside, they are now met with entrance prices that have tripled, guide prices that are the highest in the country, mostly sub par accommodation, food and frequent power outages. Khajuraho is not what it used to be, and most certainly not what you expect it to be.

It is impossible to walk the streets without constant harassment, even sat eating food in a restaurant the owner will join you and try to sell you everything and provide every service imaginable. The word ‘no’ has no meaning in Khajuraho, but when after saying it some 15 or 20 times the person will curse at you, likely spit on the ground and eyeball you with absolute hatred.

Days in Khajuraho are spent saying “no thank you”, avoiding traffic that tries to mow you down, avoiding being scammed, seeing through blatant lies and scratching mosquito bites.

Temple complex

I was travelling with 3 children, and on the day we were there, kids under 15 were free, those over paid full price which is of course, almost 20 times higher than Indians pay. There were so many guides at the entrance, it was impossible to even buy a ticket “guides compulsory” constantly being shouted at me, and insisted at me. They aren’t. Having visited the temples previously we opted to grab lunch at Raja café, a nice little place with optimum views over the complex. And the place we realised we didn’t actually need to go into the complex at all.

The hassle continued to the point of exhaustion, so I decided to grab some bikes for 100INR each, and head out of town to the Eastern temples. These are free, and though not as imposing as those in the Western complex are still worth a visit. Hassles continued at the temple, including someone saying he would steal the bikes unless I paid him. We ditched the temples and rode off into the countryside.

Rent bikes in Khajuraho

Very soon we were among the Khajuraho I remembered. No traffic, no people, birds singing in the trees, buffalo cooling themselves down in water holes. Occasionally we would see some working in a field, they would wave at us, we would wave back. We passed through a number of villages, kids ran behind us shouting “namaste” and waving, laughing. We found random temples far from anywhere, explored ruins of eras gone by, threw stones in a river, and cycled. It was perfect.

Around 6 hours later we began to arrive back into Khajuraho, sat on my bike at the side of the road having a drink of water, an auto rickshaw driver appeared; “you want rickshaw” he barked, clearly not seeing the bike I was sat on. “No thank you” I replied. “very far, too hot and too far to ride”, at the side of me was a mile marker saying we were 1km out of town. “No thank you”, I replied. “Where you from” “no thank you”. “Mister, I am trying to help you, you are very far”…… And so it was. We were back in Khajuraho, desperately waiting for the time of our train so that we could leave forever, one of India’s biggest disappointments.

Categories
South Asia

Delhi

Poverty in Delhi

When in India people will always ask “do you like India”, and my response is always the same “yes, I love India”, and it is genuine. I know India is a tough place to like at times, the dirt, chaos, horns and complete nonsensical rules that make even the smallest things difficult to do. A lot of people vow never to return, and most probably never do. Yet India has a real draw, natural beauty, an amazing blend of cultures, foods, and people. India really is incredible.

Except for Delhi.

Delhi is awful.

Most tourists roll up into New Delhi and before even leaving the train will begin to get a flavour of what is in store. The stench of faeces, especially on a hot day will hit you like a sledgehammer. If it has been raining, a mosquito will assert its place on your leg and begin the sucking you dry of everything you have, something that you will encounter in Delhi until you leave. An Indian guy that speaks great English but doesn’t quite understand the meaning of the word no, will make himself your entourage.

Scams

Virtually every backpacker will stay in Paharganj and if you manage to cross the road from the station without being mowed down by a rickshaw, you will find yourself instantly where you need to be. With one problem. If you have pre-booked a hotel you have been ripped off, if you haven’t, you are about to be ripped off. That really is the theme in Delhi, getting ripped off is certain, but just how much you get conned out of is what separates tourists. Westerners carrying loads of souvenirs, wearing Indian attire and shadowed by a ‘guide’ are all too common.

All of the hotels in Paharganj are dives. And if you have a room at the street side, sleep will be a luxury due to the fact drivers in Delhi are addicted to blasting their horn. No one actually takes any notice, and there doesn’t even need to be any one on front, just random blasts of horns. When you consider Delhi has about a gazillion rickshaws and taxis on the streets it literally just becomes a horn fest. And time doesn’t matter, don’t for one second think Deepak whizzing along at 3am will consider anyone other than his addiction to blasting that horn.

Getting a room is half the battle. Random dudes roam around asking if you want a hotel, desperate for a slice of commission. Use one of these guys but know you’ll be paying for your room, and the guys cut. These folks will not under any circumstances take no for and answer so try not to engage in any form of conversation. They will get aggressive, it happens. When you find a hotel, they will make sure they go in ahead of you claiming they have brought you and seeking some cash monies.

WiFi wont work, and food will likely have you running for the nearest toilet which will of course be a cesspit of epic proportions. Tobacco spit marks down the walls, broken toilet seat, and when you finally have relieved yourself in what is certain to be a sweat box, there will be no toilet roll. Or soap.

Paharganj is essentially a city within a city, built on a tip. Rubbish, flies and dirt everywhere. On a rainy day it is muddy, on a dry day dusty. The flies are hardcore and will hop from faeces to your face without a care in the world. Rickshaws, motorbikes and cars drive down every alley way and seem to take pride in forcing you to jump out of their way, or making it impossible for you to pass. Walking around Paharganj is an art in itself. Not only are you avoiding the traffic, flies, dirt and probably every disease going, but expect constant hassle from everyone and anyone. The classic Delhi pickpocket scam happened to me, you are walking, usually crossing a road and two men stop directly in front of you forcing you to stop and try get past, meanwhile little Sanjay has his hand in your pocket. If you ever see two men randomly stop in front of you, you are being robbed. Obviously, only an absolute idiot would walk around Delhi with open pockets and things in them.

Crime

In fact, following almost a decade of travel in some 58 countries only twice have I ever been attempted pickpocketed, both times in Delhi. And don’t expect the police to do anything. Delhi police are masters of not giving the slightest sh*t about anything whatsoever. They will stand and watch you being scammed, especially at the railway station where scams are so commonplace it’s almost a passage of right. Approach the police in Delhi and you will get laughed at and probably, they will join the scam.

In Delhi virtually every single person in the city is out to scam you. Anyone that speaks to you “Hey, where you from” is doing the whole gain your trust then scam you. Rickshaw drivers will quote you some of the funniest prices you’ve ever heard, from New Delhi to the Lotus Temple is about 16km and should cost about 100INR, certainly in an Uber it is 120INR. Rickshaw drivers will quote eye watering prices rivalling NYC taxi fares.

I love walking and walk almost everywhere, but in Delhi it is so hard due to broken pathways, litter and constant hassle. It is exhausting and even a quick jolly to the shop is fraught with constant scam attempts. If you go to visit a sight expect multi tier pricing where foreigners pay about 20 times more than Indians, expect some random guy telling you a guide is a necessity and when you tell him no, expect him to just try and be your guide anyway.

Add to all the above the brutal temperatures, mosquitos and lack of ability to sleep due to noise and very quickly every day just becomes an exercise in battling exhaustion and tolerance.

The sad thing is, Delhi has some great places to visit, but these are so few and far between that it just isn’t worth it. I urge you to avoid the city, and certainly don’t make it your lasting memory of India.

If you are leaving by train, grab some drinks, some balloons and as the train pulls away from the station celebrate the fact you survived and have left probably the worst, dirtiest, skankiest and most disgusting city on earth.

Categories
South Asia

Orachha

Temples in Orachha

About as far off the tourist trail as most foreigners are prepared to go, leafy Orachha is a gorgeous laid back slice of Rajput paradise. In many ways this is real India. A small town reached easily from Jhansi at just 250INR for the 16km journey in a rickshaw.

Orachha is almost perfect.

Typically Indian, the town itself is unremarkable, except suddenly, rather than encountering a shake down at every corner, you are waved at, welcomed and requested for selfies. Friendliness abides. It is difficult to avoid the imposing temples around the place, and once you cross the bridge to Raj Mahal you notice behind the stunning Jehangir Mahal. What makes this enclave different is that it is among natural beauty.

Think bushy trees with monkeys, a roaring river, ruins, temples and a paradise lost begging to be explored. Scenically it is spectacular, particularly with a low mist licking the tree tops. Some guide tried telling me Harry Potter was filmed here, a quick search dispelled that myth but it would not have surprised me one bit that such a magical movie was filmed on location in an equally magical place.

Sadly, that is where it ends. And it is with genuine regret that perhaps one of the countries most picturesque places is ruined the second you step inside any of the number of buildings/palaces/shrines/temples. The usual 250INR foreigner shakedown applies with kids aged 15 years and under free. If the ticket is bought at the Raj Mahal ticket office this allows you entrance to every place of interest within Orachha which is a fantastic deal. Undoubtedly the first place you will end up is Jehangir Mahal and it is as imposing as it is beautiful from the outside.

Take one foot over the threshold and the realisation of a run down, badly managed, poorly guarded reality springs to life. Graffiti adorns centuries old walls, names are scratched into any surface possible, spit marks everywhere, broken footsteps and vandalised walls. This building has survived centuries yet recent generations have begun to destroy it from the inside out.

Guards lay sleeping, careless of the irreparable damage being done.

Exploring Orachha with kids

Around the palace area is scope to explore. A path winds past ruins, through forests and down to the river, which supposedly is one of the cleanest in the country, which doesn’t say much as most Indian rivers are sceptic. But there really is opportunity to explore unfettered, an opportunity we didn’t take.

Perhaps the most beautiful of the temples jutting into the skyline is Chaturbhuj Temple next to the white and orange Ram Raja temple. Chaturbhuj has suffered the same recent demise of vandalism and graffiti. Bird faeces is everywhere making the place absolutely stink and adding a real dirty feeling to the place. Views over the city are great, especially looking back over to Raj Mahal.

Cow attack

Having travelled India extensively, Oraccha is a typical town filled with cows, goats and dogs. During our time there I was walking down the road with my kids as usual. My youngest was slightly ahead of me and headed towards a large cow with big horns. I saw the cow look like it was going to attack my son, so I pushed him out of the way and stood between him and the cow.

The cow started to ram me, I grabbed its horns to stop it jabbing me and the kids, it swung its head and threw me off. I hit the ground and as I began to get back up, shouting my kids to run, the cow trampled over me. As I lay on the floor I was trying to grab its legs to stop it trampling me and it kept attacking me with its horns. Locals come out of their homes and shops and started to hit the cow with sticks, they were throwing bottles at it and trying to get it off me. It did stop and then ran off away from me.

Picking myself up from the ground I looked for my kids, they had been taken in by a local and were watching in horror as their dad lay getting trampled by a cow.

I was wounded all down the left side of my body, cut and grazed. Thankfully nothing was broken and I was able to walk away. I would just like to thank the local people that came and helped. I know how deadly attacks from cows can be, and how very differently this incident could have ended. If you go to Orachha be careful, but be aware, you are amongst great people who beyond anything else are just hard working men and women that are grateful that you cared enough to visit their amazing little town and spectacular history.

Categories
South Asia

Gwalior

Gwalior with kids

In direct competition with Agra, Gwalior is an unimpressive attempt at coaxing tourists a few hours down the line to witness the splendor of its hilltop fort.

Rolling into Gwalior from Agra you will instantly notice less hassle, less dust and more horns.

International tourism, though firmly on the radar of local government hasn’t quite led to the numbers expected and as a result, rickshaw drivers are still their scam infancy, opting to add just a few rupees to journeys rather than all out kaboom a tourist with sky high prices. In fact, Gwalior is one of the places in India that I would advise not even bothering asking for a price. If your journey is around 10 minutes, pay 50 rupees (actual price is 40, but 10 adds a bit of cheese) if your journey is from one side of the city to the other, hand over a crisp 100 rupee note and smile.

Home to a 9th century fort built on a 3km long hilltop above the city, and reached by some short sharp switchbacks, Gwalior fort looks magical. It is, like most Indian forts filled with palaces, tombs, museums and structures. And that is where the comparison with anywhere else in India ends.

Gwalior, still in its foreigner infancy has imposed upon itself a fee structure that keeps foreigners in its cross hairs whilst attempting to rinse them of any spare money they have.

Let me explain. Gwalior runs a multi-fee system. This is completely normal in India and indeed throughout Asia. But Gwalior has gone one step further. It has imposed entrance fees for every single building of significance within the city, and removed child prices. Well, technically it hasn’t removed child prices and anyone 15 or under gains free entry, but I found it impossible to get a child price. Excuses such as “has to be an Indian student” etc were thrown about by men, who almost always spouted the line and then spat brown tobacco into the corner with absolute precision and skill.

The fees within the fort are 25 times higher for a foreigner than a local and this applies to every single building. Perhaps the biggest joke is Jai Villas, a run down looking ‘palace’ in the centre of the city that looks a few centuries past a paint job, a place no one on planet earth has likely heard of outside of Gwalior and clearly basking in its own sense of self significance, spanking tourists MORE to gain entry than the Taj Mahal, one of the worlds 7 wonders.

The zoo, a run down shit stain of epic proportions and legalised animal cruelty society follows suit with 10 ten times the local price for foreigners. The only saving grace is that it openly admits there are no child prices for foreigners, and everyone is skanked the same.

Gwalior is so insistent on fleecing tourists, that if any building even remotely looks interesting, or worth a photograph, it comes with a ticket booth and a charge.

Which always adds extra for cameras.

Gwalior fort

I was told that Gwalior is trying to attract day trippers down from Agra or those with a night to spare. What baffles me more, is that if you are in Agra and you want to see a spectacular fort, well Amber Fort in Jaipur not too far away. Not only is Amber fort bigger, more beautiful and better, it is fitted into stunning Indian scenery of rolling hill tops and ridges fringed with medieval walls, all of which can be explored.

Gwalior started at a disadvantage, Agra has been attracting tourists for centuries, Jaipur is the biggest hitter of the Indian fort department and Khajuraho is making a lot of sound, all of these places easily reached from Agra, or Delhi. Due to the greed of local government, Gwalior is an expensive destination (for India) that does not justify its cost, and, as a result I suggest you give the city a miss.

There are far better places in this part of the world, most of which either justify their cost, or are cheaper.

If you do head to Gwalior, Hotel Grace is a decent budget stay of a bad bunch, and the Indian Coffee House serves up the best food in the city.

Categories
South Asia

Jaipur

Jaipur walking with kids

Jaipur has long been a stalwart on most tourists itineraries that head to India. Just a stones throw, well a long stones throw, 4 hours by rail in fact, from Agra it is the natural choice for those looking for a slice of India in just a couple of weeks.

The capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is a seamless combination of uber modern shopping malls, world class hotels and centuries old forts, palaces and a pink city that is actually orange. Having been previously I knew where we wanted to go, where we didn’t want to and so came up with a walking tour for those that want an amazing day, on foot, taking in most of the cities history. For the most part you need cash, so stock up prior to setting out.

Jaipur trail

Distance: 16km

Time: Full Day

Difficulty: Easy

Start: Bottom of Nahargarh rd

Finish: Water Palace or the Pink City

The walk begins at the bottom of a number of killer switch backs that wind their way painfully up to Nahargarh fort that sits atop a hill offering gorgeous views out over the Pink City. The walk is tough, especially on a hot day/humid morning. Bring water!

At the fort there is a restaurant and a great place to pick up breakfast. If you are new to India I suggest ‘aloo parantha’ (spellings vary) but it is basically potato stuffed chapatti. Cheap, tasty and easy on the stomach.

After spending time exploring the fort come back out and walk along the road sign posted for ‘Jaigarh Fort’. If you are unsure, there will be plenty of guys lingering around who will gladly point you in the right direction. You may get told it is 9km or even longer, it isn’t. It is 5km to the junction then a further 500m to the fort.

I strongly suggest you buy water from Nahargah Fort, there is no shop en route. If you feel like a snack, women sell grilled corn for 10 rupees per cob at the junction.

Jaipur with kids

Walking along the road you will notice that save for the odd car driving past, you are pretty much alone. The trees open up every few hundred metres offering up great views over the city and eventually over the absolutely gorgeous water palace. The route itself is pretty flat with the occasional up or downhill, but very easy to walk as the road is well paved. After around a kilometre you will see a structure protruding above the trees. This is Mandir Sati Mata and entrance is free. Though it seems like there isn’t much to see, if you walk behind the temple you will find a staircase that leads to the top of a great lookout.

Continuing on, and another km down the road you arrive at Charan Mandir, a temple like complex completely empty save for a caretaker relaxing in the grounds and soaking up the sun’s rays. Entrance is free. This is the perfect place to hit the toilet as you will notice from the stench. The only problem is, there isn’t actually a toilet, just a wall stained with decades of urine.

Eventually peacocks start to appear and monkeys begin to look suspiciously from trees at anything loose you are carrying.

Continuing on the road splits, you are at the junction for Jaingarh fort.

You really can’t miss Jaingarh Fort, home to the largest cannon on earth (according to themselves) it is a huge Fort with pretty much nothing inside except for wonderful views, a suspect cannon and a great stop for lunch. Entrance is 100 rupees per adult and 45 rupees for children.

Looking down the hill from Jaingarh Fort you will notice a sand looking coloured, palace type mega building. It is in-fact the world famous, and perhaps most beautiful fort in the whole of India; Amber Fort. The reason tourists have been making their way to Jaipur and a place that spawned mass tourism to the region. Look beyond the fort and notice the wall fringed ridges in the distance. It really does take a second look to realise just how beautiful place you are in.

There is a downhill road from Jaingarh that will take you right to the entrance courtyard of the Amber Fort (pronounced Amer Fort). The cobbled road travels from one fort to another and is frequented by elephants accompanied by monkeys, cows and the odd lost looking goat.

Entrance to Amber fort is a steep 750 rupees per adult and 450 rupees per child. You really could spend half a day exploring the many courtyards, alleys and rooms in the Amber fort. And you may choose to end your walk here. If that is the case, jump in a tuk tuk, ask for a photo stop at the water palace and then onwards to city palace. It should costs about 100 rupees, but you will be lucky to get it for sub 250 rupees.

From the Amber fort come down to the rickshaw park, and follow the steps up behind. It is a steep walk up to the top of the ridge opposite the fort. Stunning views, and a realisation that all the day trippers missed this bit. Descend the same way you came up.

Amber Fort with kids

If you chose to walk, keep the Amber fort to your right hand side and head along the road as it winds up the hill and onto the water palace. This obligatory photo stop is simply beautiful and a real piece of India. Kids will show you magic tricks, you can buy good local food, crafts and all at rock bottom (hard bargained) prices. If your legs need a rest you can hop on a camel, or choose to jump on one of the many rammed buses that will spot you and then offer you a standing space for 10 rupees. If you continue walking you are around half an hour from the city palace.

Keep walking in the same direction and when you see the streets to get busy, as though you are coming to a bazaar, and you can see huge city walls ask someone to point you in the direction of ‘City Palace’. Everyone knows where it is, and eventually you will get to it. Once there you are at the heart of the Pink City, close to Jantar Mantar, Hawa Mahal and Iswari Minar Swarga. Here you can take in the best of the Pink City and stroll the chaotic streets.

It will likely be early evening and if you have walked the entire route a good meal will be in order. My recommendation is Peacock Restaurant at the Pearl Palace hotel. Reservations are sometimes needed so maybe book ahead, or turn up and hope. But they sell the most amazing chicken tikka I have ever had, and, since we usually go vegetarian in India it is one of just a handful of places I trust the meat.

Jaipur is probably the most walkable city in the entire country and home to arguably the best of India.

Just remember to pack comfortable shoes, plenty of water and sun lotion.

Enjoy.

Categories
Practical Information

Scams

Avoid Being Ripped Off

This guide covers many of the most common scams you will likely encounter whilst travelling/backpacking. 

Everyone who travels gets scammed in one way or another. But it is important to note that a scam doesn’t necessarily carry the same intent as it does in the UK.

In impoverished countries some people are literally at the wire, they have nothing and no means and so born through desperation they turn to wealthy tourists to feed their families.

Whilst this is true for many scamsters it isn’t for all, some are aggressively dishonest to the point that they would take your last breath and then kick you for more. I mean really nasty, devious people, the sort who know they are leaving you vulnerable and with nothing and couldn’t care less if they tried.

It goes without saying that some scams are more common than others and some are more complex than others. With that in mind I haven’t listed them in any particular order, but it goes without saying, new scams pop up daily and they are getting ever more complex. Differentiating between someone trying to rip you and off and someone trying to help will perhaps be one of the things you should try and learn quickly once your travels begin.

Taxi scams

This applies to anyone that will take you from point A to B, be it a tuk tuk, taxi, rickshaw etc. If ever you feel threatened by a driver simply get out, do not get angry, start shouting or anything, just get out.

The following is a warning for women travelling alone (or with kids).

DO NOT EVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES GET IN A TAXI/TUK TUK WITH TWO MEN, IF ONE JUMPS IN EN ROUTE, MAKE A FUSS AND GET OUT. YOU HAVE FOUND YOURSELF IN A SERIOUS SITUATION THAT IS UNLIKELY TO END WELL.

Anyway, the list is by no means exhaustive and variations of each scam pop up every now and again…

 Your hotel is burned down/doesn’t exist/is dangerous etc…

A common scam that is easily called by saying you are meeting a friend who is already there. It’s amateur and you feel like slapping yourself silly that people still try this 70’s classic on.

The meter isn’t working/inflated meter rate/price changes upon arrival

This is more of a boring rhetoric than a scam, even if the meter was working you would struggle to get the driver to use it. When you agree a price be absolutely sure it is for the car and not per person, when you arrive if the driver says it was a different price calmly remove yourself from the situation quickly. This is not as common a scam as some books/websites might have you believe.

Taking the long way around

It happens in the UK, so you can be sure it is going to happen in poor countries. Always be clear about where you want to go, or at least know the distance/direction of where you are going and pull out the compass on your phone. If you are in a new place and don’t fancy the scenic route simple call ahead and get your hotel to send someone for you, or to tell you how much it should be.

The taxi has broken down en route

Taxi drivers in Asia have the most amazing luck, every time they break down it always seems to be right outside a restaurant/shop, and that restaurant/shop is always the best place around town to grab a munch. This scam is more common in SE Asia than anywhere else, and is almost the norm for journeys longer than say 30 minutes.

Would you like to visit a [INSERT MUSEUM/PLACE OF INTEREST] en route

Despite the fact that you have got in a tuk tuk with a driver that barely speaks English and who has agreed to take you where you want to go; He knows the perfect excursion, a place you will absolutely love…Also a place he will get commission.

Can’t find your hotel

This is a classic, and has happened to me the 3 times that we have arrived at Agra, India. Now, it is actually highly likely the driver might not know your third floor hostel in some back street. Few drivers will turn away business because they don’t know your destination, they will nod and take you and work the rest out later, but be aware, some drivers will attempt to make it look like you are well and truly lost then magically some hotel manager will appear and has the perfect deal for you. Avoid this obvious scam by calling ahead, or when you get lost calling the hotel and letting the driver speak to the manager. Remember though – Drivers do actually and genuinely get lost!

Extra Charges

Whilst it is true some meters account for air conditioning in the car, some drivers will ask if you want it on, then bill you extra at the end. If a driver asks if you want it on ask how much.

I haven’t got any change

It’s amazing how few drivers apparently carry change, but this doesn’t mean you have to pay the amount you hand over. Nip to a nearby shop and buy some chewing gum and watch the drivers face drop as you hand him what you agreed. If you have a hefty note, ask before you get in if he has change. Scuppering the scam from the off.

Sleight of hand

You hand over a fifty, and within half a second the driver has swapped it for a ten and is asking for more money. Difficult to argue, easy to avoid. Count your money and let him know, you know what you have just handed over.

Driver cum tourist guide

It’s your lucky day, you just happen to have stepped into a taxi whose driver is also a tourist guide, he will point out obvious places and say them in broken English expecting to be paid for his services in addition to the fare. That said I was in Java, Indonesia and didn’t want to pay a certain price to get in somewhere and the driver offered to take me to a place where we could see into the complex and get really close. Things like that should obviously be rewarded.

The phantom popping boot

Never put anything of any real value in the boot of the taxi. Boots have a tendency to pop open when the car is stuck in traffic or at lights and your things can disappear. Of course the driver knows nothing about it…

The lead onto another scam, scam

Almost as common as getting over charged, the driver will ask where you are going, next destination etc and then get on the mobile to his buddy who is fresh and waiting for you at your destination to have a whole load of other scams waiting for you.

Airport/train station/toll fees

Be careful with this one, plenty of drivers do add on journey fees and this is expected, but the amount they add on can be suspicious. If they have to pay a fee, ensure that’s the fee you have to pay.

Thanks for the stuff

Never pay the driver until you have got out of the car, got your belongings from the boot, grabbed the kids and are ready to go. It’s common sense really.

I can only go this far

The driver randomly stops and claims he is unable to go any further, but not to worry, along comes someone on a camel, donkey, pedal rickshaw etc who can go further. This scam is a tricky one as in places like Agra and Varanasi in India there are restrictions of motor vehicles, but exercise a bit of common sense, 99% of the time this is a scam, and so look around, is your driver the only one not allowed to drive further? Really.

The sad reality is that the most scams you will encounter travelling are from taxi/tuk tuk drivers, but I have been assured it’s not just tourists that have to face their perpetual and relentless efforts, locals too are at their mercy.

Exercise a bit of common sense, never pay up front (unless it is prepaid and then ensure you get your receipt) and take things with a pinch of salt, laugh at the blatancy and try not to let it ruin your day.

It’s a just fact of life.

Hotel Scams

Most hotel scams are tied in with taxi scams. You know the score, every taxi driver knows some hotel manager happy to pay him a hefty commission for bringing you. Be exceptionally careful when contacting your hotel for pick up as some popular hotels have fake Facebook sites where you are actually calling a competitor who will promise to pick you up for free. Once he collects you he explains the hotel is overbooked but he has found you alternate accommodation in his other hotel. See right through this one, it’s been going on since the 15th century.

Street Scams

One of the things that has always puzzled me as a traveller is how some guy with no teeth, who hasn’t had a wash for a year thinks he can strut up like he is straight out of Compton, do the most blatant scam ever and actually expect me to fall for it. I mean come on! Read on for just how blatantly obvious these guys are!

Baby Milk

This scam has been doing the rounds since the day baby milk got invented. Some woman (or guy) desperately poor comes up and asks for milk for their obviously malnourished baby. It’s an awful position to be put in and any parent will feel sad to the pit of their stomach at the state of the poor child, but it’s a scam, and it’s a bastard scam because if people weren’t purveying this you might actually be willing to help out meaning all those who aren’t scamming lose out. Anyway, you go to the shop and buy some baby milk at an inflated price, you walk off feeling you have done a good deed and the woman/guy return the milk and skims off the commission.

Bird Shit Scam

I didn’t name it this, it is a common scam and one that has happened to me twice in one day. You are walking along minding your own business when ‘splat’ a big splodge of what looks like bird shit lands on your shoe, or your shoulder, but not to worry, today is your lucky day, there just happens to be a guy right there who can clean you up, buff your shoes or whatever for just a small fee. Come on!!

Language/let me be your friend scam

You are approached, usually by a smart looking guy who wants to be your friend. He also needs help reading or writing a letter written in English, could you help? Yeah sure, you agree and head off to a local bar/restaurant for a few drinks. After a few rounds the bloke goes off to the loo and you don’t see him again. You are left with a hefty bill where your drinks have been massively overpriced and you have no option but to settle. An hour after you have gone the bloke returns for his cut.

There are a million variations of this and so be careful, if you are being led to a bar or restaurant with anyone have your wits about you.

Fake goods

Ok, you might be able to spot that the DVD purporting to be Terminator 7 is fake because it’s not even been written yet, but what about that granite pyramid? Or that emerald? Unless you are straight out of the antiques road show be careful when handing money over for something that is meant to be something else. It very often isn’t.

Gem scam

This bad boy is probably the first scam ever invented, and there are loads of variations that typically centre around the same thing – Someone trying to sell you gems at a knock down price for whatever reason. Tourists looking to get rich quick have been left penniless by this ridiculously obvious scam.

The closed temple scam

You approach a temple and are told it is closed for whatever reason, or that only people offering blessings can enter. You are then either directed to another temple where you must pay a hefty price for entrance, or to a guy selling overpriced offerings. Or perhaps you would like a tour of somewhere whilst you wait until it opens?

Relentless scam

Some touts will be so relentless in their hounding of you that you just give in and let yourself be scammed because it is easier. They know what they are doing, don’t give in.

Gambling tricks

These blokes will make it look like its taking candy of a baby, but they are masters of sleight of hand and never lose. Don’t ever get involved with street gambling, you will not win.

Price increase scam

This happens all the time, you agree a price with someone for something and inflation goes up and then you are charged more. Stick to what you agreed, it’s more of a harmless tiresome chore than anything sinister. Always agree a price beforehand.

Carpet scam

There are variants of this, but someone selling something too big to carry offers to ship it to your home address. I mean really, as daft as it sounds people do actually fall this expecting to get home to a nice new carpet or whatever. Needless to say it rarely ever arrives.

Free Wi-Fi

Not so much a bad scam as a hindrance, you decide a call home or some work online is in order. So the deciding factor in where you eat is free Wi-Fi, well obviously everywhere advertises free Wi-Fi, but check before you order that they actually do have it, and that it works. In Pokhara, Nepal for example, every single restaurant claims to have free Wi-Fi, yet only about 20% actually have Wi-Fi at all.

Third Party Scam

This is one of the most frequent scams you will likely encounter. There are variants of it but it’s essentially some bloke approaching you to help you, he then takes you somewhere and you are fleeced whilst he gets commission. Ask yourself, do you really need some guy to find you a taxi? Or to show you to a shop?

The sex scam

You head out and decide to get chatty with a girl way out of your league. You buy her drinks all night, settle the bill and you think you are onto a winner. Back at the hotel things get frisky and then you are knocked sideways by the presence of a penis where you didn’t expect one. Statistically this has never happened to a single bloke – Realistically it happens all the time.

Fake police

You are approached by a guy claiming to be the police and whatever you have just being doing isn’t permitted, but pay a fine and all will be ok. This also happens by actual police who will stop tourists driving motorbikes/scooters and claim you’ve just infringed some traffic act.

Transport scams

Boat scam

You agree a price, but the driver doesn’t tell you he actually meant one way and so he floats around in the centre refusing to take you back to shore unless you cough up.

Train station scams

You turn up at the station fresh as a daisy and some guy needs to see your ticket. Unlucky, your ticket needs validating and so he gestures you head off to some building where there is obviously a fee. Don’t fall for it, it doesn’t need validating.

Bus ticket scam

I have fallen for this one, in Indonesia I got on a bus and before it set off some guy came and asked me where I was heading. I stupidly paid for the ticket and he gave me a ticket, then en route a different guy came round asking for my ticket. I had been duped. Point being, unless you are buying a ticket from an official ticket office based at the bus station – Buy your ticket on the bus from the same dude everyone else is buying from.

Motorbike return scam

Some people will tell you this is the most common scam in Asia. You rent a motorbike and are dumb enough to leave your passport as security. When you return the bike the renter claims you have caused damage that wasn’t there previously and so charges you ridiculous amounts before handing your passport back.

Motorbike theft scam

You rent a bike for a few days and on the application put the hotel you are staying at. At the end of the first day you park up and whilst you sleep the renter comes along with a spare key and robs the bike. You are now left with the cost of stumping up for a new bike.

Dangerous scams

Here are some potentially dangerous situations.

Never accept a drink from anyone on a long distance coach/train that you do not fully trust. Travellers get spiked and before long you will be unconscious whilst your things are stolen. Rapes have also occurred as a result of travellers being spiked.

Never get in a taxi with two or more blokes (that you don’t know). Single women have jumped in and ended up being gang raped, single blokes have ended up being beaten and robbed. Don’t ever put yourself in a situation where you are extremely vulnerable.

Be aware of other travellers who will befriend you and then keep an eye on your things whilst you head out, only for you to return to nothing. The sad reality is some backpackers do this for a living, don’t become a victim.

If you choose to have any form of sexual contact it is absolutely vital that you take necessary precautions. Instances of sexually transmitted disease and HIV/AIDS is often much higher than in the UK/Europe.

As I have already said, scams are as much a part of backpacking as carrying a backpack and the vast majority are little more than blatant hiccups in your day.

Remember, if something seems too good to be true it usually is, and not everyone is out to scam you.

 

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