Category: South Asia

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South Asia

Hiking The Everest Base Camp Trek with a child

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date September 23, 2018

Introduction

Mount Everest, the highest mountain on earth, a magnet for mountaineers for decades and a regular pilgrimage for adventurous backpackers seeking a view of highest point on our earth. Snow-capped, savage, but beautiful in its aura, hikers push themselves to their limits to stand in its awe, and to soak in the amazement and wonder of this iconic peak.

Hiking to Everest base-camp (EBC Trek) is for most people, as close as they will ever get to the mountain. For just about every person that hikes the EBC camp trail, it will be a dream come true and form memories that will last a lifetime.

Having already hiked all over the world with kids the Everest Base camp Trail had been a dream of mine, and my stepson for years. Just 14 years old, I wondered if it was a step too far. I was unfit, we had very little time, and it would mean a harsh regime of training, planning and ultimately, taking ‘that’ flight into Lukla.

We completed the West Highland Way in April, and on the journey back to our home in Yorkshire I knew we could do it. I looked at Charlie, nodded and said “lets do the EBC”. He smiled. It was on.

Getting from Kathmandu to Lukla

Hiking

It used to be a flight, or a long walk from Jiri was your only realistic option into Lukla. As Nepalese infrastructure within the region has ploughed ahead, the road now reaches Phaplu or Salleri which shaves a few days off the Jiri hike. It is worth pointing out that if you walk in to the EBC trail, you can avoid Lukla altogether as the trail leads directly to the EBC. This road is very much a work in progress, albeit a slow one, but the distance is increasing year on year.

Flying from Kathmandu to Lukla

The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla with kids

The way it works with local airlines in Nepal, is that you buy a return ticket. Flights are so regularly cancelled that the date on your ticket often doesn’t mean much. During summer flights only really happen in the mornings as once cloud comes in, flights can no longer take off. The biggest issue with flights is that you can never guarantee your dates. Until of course you actually get to the airport and are hurtling down the run way.

Typically, you are told to be at the airport at a certain time, we rolled up and the airport wasn’t even open. Thankfully we found a door that in true Nepali style was unlocked and allowed us unrestricted access to the airport. A guard dog did take interest in us and particularly my leg, but thankfully alerted a security guard who came over, brick in hand and convinced the dog the to take his business elsewhere.

Renowned as being the most dangerous flight in the world, on an airline with a long history of flying into mountains, headed to the most difficult landing strip on the planet, a flight to Lukla is obviously a major concern. And for some people, the defining factor of whether to hike the EBC or not.

What generally happens with Nepali airlines is that one of them crashes, then changes its name or merges with another airline. Nonetheless, we booked through Yeti airlines and ended up on a Tara plane. At Kathmandu airport you board a bus and head to your plane. I remember seeing the dodgiest looking planes ever and thinking ‘I hope that’s not ours, I hope that’s not ours’, invariably the shadiest looking one, held together with little more than sweat and hope, was ours.

The tiny plane we boarded had just seven of us on there and was some cold war era looking thing that anywhere else in the world would probably now be in a museum somewhere. Thankfully we were told what side of the aircraft to sit on to ensure we got great views. Cockpit door clearly an affordable extra, the two pilots were waiting for a break in the cloud before they went for it. A slither of blue sky appeared, the engines roared to life and within minutes we were shaking into the sky and down the Kathmandu valley. Though only a 25 minute flight, I felt every single second. Convinced that any minute a screw would pop loose or a wing fall off. Conscious, that the most spectacular view I had ever witnessed, could well be the last thing I ever saw.

Eventually a tiny landing strip pops into view and the mountains start to close in, moments later we landed on a ridiculously small runway and held on, praying the plane would stop before hitting the mountain at the end. Conscious that the flight has no option to ‘go around’. I have never felt more grateful to any pilot. Well. Until the return trip.

Flying from Lukla to Kathmandu

By the time we had got back to Lukla, I would’ve boarded a paper plane out of there. That said, the flight back to Kathmandu is an experience in itself. Leaving Lukla is not something to be taken lightly, this is where delays are common place so arriving at Lukla airstrip we really didn’t know whether we would be leaving or not. We were told that the flight would be heavily delayed but that we had to wait on the airstrip for it to arrive. Eventually we saw a plane rocking as it came in to land, and here’s the best bit. As the plane was still moving people were bailing, jumping out and having their bags thrown at them. Suddenly someone jumps up and starts ushering us onto the plane, it was moving slowly but an urgency to get on, and get on quickly was made very clear to us. Literally we jumped on, with three other people and the plane did a quick U-turn and revved up down the runway. Looking out of the window I felt a sadness to be leaving Lukla then suddenly the plane dropped what felt like a long way, my heart was in my mouth. Turns out that because Lukla runway is on a slope, you literally go off the end of it and then become airborne. This is because when landing, the upward slope allows the plane to slow down quickly, but when leaving, get a much greater speed as it is going downhill. For everyone inside, and unaware, this results in fear of imminent expiration. For the aircraft, it is the only way for it to become airborne.

The flight back to Kathmandu was every bit as shaky and bumpy as it was outbound and I just felt that every minute could be our last. However, when we landed at Kathmandu and disembarked I looked at the pilots, two men who are fair game for the buts of many jokes. Yet two men who fly notoriously difficult routes, in one of the worlds least safe countries aviation wise. Two amazing masters of their craft and clearly, outstanding pilots.

Accomodation

On the trail, accommodation is very basic. Most lodges are shared bathrooms and some of the toilets are squat toilets. Nowhere has toilet roll so bring your own. Rooms are small with two single beds, but in some villages, there is very little choice and you can end up in a cramped wooden box with little between you and the elements. Showers are chargeable and freezing cold.

It is expected that you eat your evening meal where you stay.

Supplies on the EBC

Water

We decided to take water purification tablets, and also to take a ‘water to go’, which is a bottle that filters the water and claims to be perfect for drinking water whilst out trekking. Given we would be drinking up to 5 litres of water each per day, that is why we chose to take purification tablets. Purely a money saving mechanism.

Cost of water on the trail 80NPR for 1L in Lukla, leaving Lukla in Pahkding it costs 100NPR per litre and then increases in proce the further on the trail you get, coming in at 250NPR per litre at Gorak Shep.

Food

Accommodation on the trail is crazy cheap, usually $1 – $2 per night, sometimes free, this is because it is expected that you eat your evening meal there. Meals range from veg fried rice or noodles, mo-mos, stews etc. Again, food prices increase depending on where you are on the trail from around 200NPR in Lukla, upwards of 600NPR in Gorak Shep.

Permits

If you are doing EBC independently you have to get your permit from the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu, not in Thamel. It’s not an issue it’s an easy walk from Thamel or a short ride in a taxi.

Equipment list to take on the EBC Trek

Trousers x 3	Base layers x 3
Walking socks x 4	Softy/down/insulated jacket
Soft shell jacket (Windproof)	Waterproof layer (we used Gore-tex)
Buff	Cap and woolly hat
Blanket	Sunglasses
Gore-tex boots	Flip flops (believe me you NEED these!)
Gators	Walking poles
Map	Face wipes & Antibacterial gel
Sun cream	Toilet roll (no where on the trail has this!)
First aid kit (see here)	Water purification tablets/filtration bottle
Hydration tablets	Cheap phone
Camera	Note pad and pen
Book	Head light
Deodorant	Tooth brush and toothpaste

Note: Battery charging on the trek is often unavailable or you must pay for it. We didn’t take one, as my cheap phone had 30hrs of battery life, but worth the investment.

Day 1

Lukla (2880m) – Namche Bazaar (3440m)

Distance: 25.8Km

Time taken: 9hrs

We landed into Lukla at 8.30am. For some reason every guide book recommends hiking to Pahkding, but to me this didn’t make sense. The elevation of Pahkding is 2610m compared with Lukla which is 2880m and it’s also not really that far. I decided it would make more sense to have a big first day and head straight to Namche Bazaar, feeling like we’d made some progress. It is so common that people hike just to Pahkding, that when we strolled up to the lodge in Namche Bazaar the guy couldn’t believe we had come straight from Lukla.

I would love to sit and talk about the village of Lukla, and how this is great and that is great, but conscious of the hike ahead we literally walked out of the airport, through the narrow streets of Lukla, past lodges, trekking shops and straight to where we needed to register at a tourism police check point. Effortless and slick, we registered and then left the village through Pasang Lhamo Memorial Gate. Instantly, you are on a trail headed into the valley meandering around the lush green mountain sides beneath clouds clinging to the sides.

It is beautiful, you don’t need me to tell you that.

It feels as though you have been transported a world frequented by few, seen by even less, loved by everyone.

It is as close to paradise on earth. But it is subjective. We were there during monsoon season and I loved how the clouds teased us constantly, gifting a rare sight of a rugged peak just occasionally. I loved the green of the grass, the yellow of the flowers, the earth felt alive. Yet others prefer clear blue skies, tired grass giving a solid underfoot. That is why I won’t wax lyrical about the scenery, to me it was mind-blowing, to everyone something different.

We stopped for lunch in Bengcar, but this was really the only time we stopped the whole day. Well except for when Charlie was doing a river crossing and I realised we should have put gators on.

Between Lukla and Namche there are a total of six suspension bridges. All six of them dodgy. Following the sixth bridge and easily the scariest of them all, the incline increases and a tormenting climb of switchbacks begin. They only end once you finally reach Namche and the end of a gruelling day. Just before reaching the village you pass a check point, it is also from this check point that you can buy certificates to prove to any naysayer that you actually did the EBC. If proving people wrong just happens to be your thing.

Charlie won the ‘you fell over first award’ about 2hrs into the trek and he also won the ‘idiot of the trek award’ when a local child asked him “what language do you speak”, Charlie responded, “thank you” and continued walking.

From around 2.30pm we were rained on constantly, and this is where having Gore-Tex was a life saver as we continued onwards in spite of the weather. Once at Namche we were exhausted and found the first place we could, ditched our gear and then sat in the amazing dining hall of the lodge reading the stories and memorabilia of trekkers who had passed through here over the years. Had it not been so cold I could’ve sat in there all night. As it happened, we retreated to the room to read and within minutes Charlie had fallen asleep and I was close thereafter. Both knowing that this had been one of the most amazing, but hardest days of our lives.

Where we stayed: Hotel Everest View

Costs: 200NPR

Calories burned: 5433

Steps: 38,000

Day 2

Acclimatization day

Distance: 8km

Time taken: 2hrs 30 mins

At about 3000m the human body can no longer sustain itself without proper acclimatisation and so people check out or get seriously ill. It was also a great excuse to do nothing since we were still absolutely blown out from the day previous.

In order to acclimitise effectively you are supposed to hike somewhere higher in altitude than where you are sleeping, then retreat back. So this is exactly what we did.

We headed up towards Khumjung hoping to catch our first glimpse of Everest en route. This wasn’t to be, and we were a little disappointed. We hiked to the highest point of the trail to Khumjung and could see the village beneath us. Visibility was reducing quickly so we descended back into Namche and played cards and read for the remainder of the day, and our second night of little sleep due to dogs howling throughout the night.

Where we stayed: Hotel Everest View

Costs: 200NPR

Calories: 1960

Steps: 11,838

Day 3

Namche Bazaar (3440m) – Pangboche (3985m)

Distance: 20.6km

Time taken: 7hrs

Leaving Namche is an immediate steep ascent, but this doesn’t last long. The path levels out and becomes a gentle hike, not quite flat, but termed to be ‘Nepali flat’ which means some ups and downs, but nothing major.

Once you reach Sanasa there is a long descent which we were already dreading for the return journey and when you reach Phunki Thenga this changes into a long, grinding sequence of switchbacks up to Tengboche. The paths are mostly stoney and pebbled paths and it felt never-ending.

We originally planned to hike to Tengboche (3860m) but by the time we reached there, it was midday and the place felt deserted. We decided to have a bag of nuts for lunch and press on to Pangboche.

The stretch out of Tengboche is a steep descent through a wooded area, the path is rocky and tough on tired feet. After a while you meet up with the riverside and the path levels out, once over the bridge the climb starts again and doesn’t finish until you reach the village of Pangboche.

It was another tough night, but thankfully dog free allowing us to have a good nights sleep.

Where we stayed: Gunbala Lodge

Costs: 100NPR

Calories: 3922

Steps: 30,251

Day 4

Pangboche (2985m) – Thukla (4940m)

Distance: 13.5Km

Time taken: 4hrs

The plan was to head to Periche (4371m) and then see how we felt and whether to stay over, or continue onwards. Again, we covered the distance way quicker than we had expected and was in Periche after just two hours, mainly due to the absolute ease of the hike. Since it was only 9.30am, we decided to push on and head to Thukla.

Periche is a beautiful place in a stunning valley but felt like it would’ve been a waste of a day to stay there. Upon leaving we were joined by a menacing looking number of dogs whose intentions we weren’t sure about. It quickly became apparent they meant us no harm, and for a while it was nice to be joined by them. Soon though they became irritating as they kept pushing past us, squeezing between us and just randomly stopping in front of us to the point they were significantly slowing us down.

The hike from Periche is sharp at times, but mainly a steady incline. Both Charlie and I agreed that this was the hardest stretch so far, not due to the terrain, but the altitude really started to get to us. Eventually we saw a tiny collection of just two lodges and realised we were in Thukla (also pronounced Thokla) and this would be where we would spend the night. In order to access the lodges you must cross a super dodgy bridge Lara Croft style.

Where we stayed: Yak Lodge

Costs: Free (assuming you ate at the restaurant)

Calories: 2501

Steps: 19,777

Day 5

Thukla (4940m) – Everest Basecamp (5380m) – Gorak Shep (5164m)

Distance: 18Km

Time taken: 8hrs 30 mins

We knew this was going to be a huge day.

The ground now rocky and arid, devoid of life, greenery scarce, mountain peaks jutting into the sky, it was otherworldly.

For the first time we felt like we really were on top of the world. We were sandwiched between a glacier and a mountain, the cold air blasting us as it rolled from the peaks of some of the highest mountains in the world. The groaning noise of the glacier as it creaks added an eerie feel to what was already a lifechanging day.

The ascent was brutal. Breathing became harder, our bags felt heavier, and we just pushed on knowing this was going to be the pinnacle, this was why we were here.

After what felt like an eternity we arrived at Gorak Shep, which really is the final frontier of the Everest region. Deciding we would spend the night here we ditched all our non essentials, refueled and continued on towards Everest Basecamp. Every step felt like the hardest step we had ever taken and when we got just past Kala Pattar speaking between us both was minimal. It had snowed the previous night meaning we couldn’t climb up Kala Pattar and so we continued following the glacier and sandy, rocky trail.

For the previous 2 days we had seen glimpses of mountain peaks, we had witnessed and been privilege to a scenery I could never have imagined. Yet we had still not seen Everest.

Our hike had now become a slow, desperate motion forward taken with small steps as the altitude really gripped me. Charlie was better than I was, but we both had headaches and were struggling to continue. And then it happened. The clouds opened up like the curtains at a theatre. And we stood there, waiting to see what the show had on offer and it was mesmerising. A tear clung to my eye as my breathing shallowed, the hairs on my neck stood up. I could hear the glacier grumbling away, prayer flags flapping in the wind. I managed a weak motion of my hand over to Charlie and realised he too had found himself in the same paradise that I had. For a moment nothing in the world mattered. We had made it.

At basecamp I collapsed over a rock and knew we had to head back. The journey back to Gorak Shep was silent. Both immersed in our thoughts, grateful for seeing earth at its rawest, and most rugged. For me it was the end of a journey that I had trained for, worked hard for, and that if I am honest, didn’t think I would achieve. Charlie at just 14 years old knew that he had instantly become one of the elite, one of the few children to have ever stepped foot at basecamp.

Though we saw Mount Everest, the summit remained hidden from view behind a linger of cloud. Perhaps coaxing us back to see if we might one day see the roof of the world in its raw glory. Who knows. But back at Gorek Shep I was now feeling really ill so we retreated to bed and slept off the most difficult, but amazing day of our lives.

Where we stayed: Snowland Inn

Costs: Free (assuming you ate at the restaurant)

Calories: 4,158

Steps: 26,450

Day 6

Gorak Shep (5164m) – Debuche (3734m)

Distance: 25.5Km

Time taken: 6hrs

We had planned to hike all the way to Tengboche, we had to descend. We had hung around all morning at Gorak Shep hoping the clouds would clear fully and I was now really struggling with altitude.

Hiking out of Gorak Shep we immediately started to lose altitude and it really is amazing how quickly I started to improve. The talking between us both started back up, and a new energy was there. Due to the late start, and knowing you aren’t allowed to trek after sunset in the region, when we arrived into Debuche we decided to spend the night. A guide told us that the next village, Tengboche was closed. I have no idea of this was true, but it no longer mattered.

Speaking to Charlie that night it became apparent how well he had masked his struggles at basecamp. To me he looked ok, but he explained how physically demanding the day had been but how he knew I had been struggling and didn’t want to give me anything else to think about. And really that sums him up, tenacious, caring, determined and someone who is a fantastic hiking partner. I realised just how proud of him I really was at that point.

Where we stayed: Paradise Lodge

Costs: 250NPR

Calories: 4,202

Steps: 37,394

Day 7

Debuche (3734m) – Lukla (2880m)

Distance: 35.4km

Time taken: 10Hrs

Leaving Debuche and headed to Namche Bazaar I realised how physically and mentally tired we both were. We hadn’t showered in a week, opting rather for cold washes and roll on deodorant. We hadn’t had a good nights sleep, hadn’t relaxed, and I wanted nothing more than an ice cold soft drink by a pool to relax what was now my aching bones. I had an idea.

I said to Charlie, that if we hiked the unthinkable, all the way back to Lukla, then we could fly out of there hopefully in the morning.

I would get us a 5-star hotel in Kathmandu, eat at the best restaurant and spend a couple of days doing absolutely nothing. He was sold, and we pushed ourselves beyond our limits, hiking the entire way back to Lukla.

There comes a time when you are hiking that you are no longer tired, where your legs feel so heavy that their movement becomes autonomous. Where if you blink longer than a split second you would fall asleep. Hiking into Lukla, in darkness. That is how we felt.

Where we stayed: Lama Hotel

Costs: 150NPR

Calories: 5704

Steps: 51,915

At the airport the following morning, looking out over where we had started. Where an adventure that had pushed us both beyond our limits was now over, we hugged. And we shared a silent moment of perfection, of understanding, of pride and of the realisation that we had shared something so beautiful, something so amazing that we could never share just how spectacular the last seven days had been, and just how life changing it was.

Tags EBC, Everest basecamp, Everest basecamp with kids, hiking EBC with kids, take kids on EBC

South Asia

Kolkata self guided walking tour

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date August 12, 2018

India’s second largest city, home to 14 million people and like no where else on the subcontinent. Though still typically India, dirty streets, constant blasts of horns, spit marks everywhere, non existent traffic rules, gridlocked roads and extreme poverty. Kolkata mixes things up a little differently with colonial era buildings, leafy parks and a few traffic lights.

The majority of visitors that have arrived by land will get off at the huge Howrah Junction terminal. For the city itself, hop on a ferry outside and nip over to the pier closest to your hotel. Taxis are everywhere, and despite laws requiring them to use their meter, and despite each one having painted on the side ‘no refusal’, it is virtually impossible to get a driver to use their meter, and, refusals are more common place and than acceptance.

Accommodation is very expensive by India standards, something which hasn’t quite affected standards. Cheap dives can be found on Sudder street, just down the road from the Indian museum.

Whilst in Kolkata I decided to write a list of all the places I wanted to go, and then walk it. And that is what we did, so here is my…

Kolkata walking tour:

Start/End: Rabnindra Sadan Metro station

Difficulty: Other than usual India roadside dangers and heat, the walk was easy.

Time: Full day

Nehru Children’s museum

Quirky, and all things considered a complete waste of time. Just a display of dolls and a few sculptures, but proceeds from the admission go to children’s charities in the city.

Victoria memorial

Gorgeous building set in unimpressive grounds. Typical scam in that all foreigners, including kids above aged 3 must pay an extortionate 500INR for entrance to the museum, or just 10INR to mooch around the grounds.

Continue on to Fort William and then Dalhousie barrack, before walking up the riverside to Eden Garden, one of the worlds most famous cricket grounds. Off the corner is Raj Bhavan which is invitation only, but good place to nab a few photographs. Heading back towards the river, pass the High Court and the Banking Museum (we didn’t go in). Just up the road you can either walk through millennium park, which clearly hasn’t been touched by a brush, or lick of paint since the millennium, or continue up the road past the Prince of Wales visit Memorial. Swing back on the inside towards the Cathedral of the Holy Rosary and Armenian church.

Mullick Ghat flower market is just beneath Howrah bridge, we walked up and across the bridge, back to the ferry port by Howrah junction and the hitched a boat back over the river to Babughat.

We strolled back over towards the Indian Museum which we opted not to go into due the crazy foreigner prices which again would’ve fleeced me $30 for me and three kids. We continued down to the Planetarium but the missed the English showing which was at 1.30pm. Continuing down we then found ourselves at St Pauls Cathedral, had a look around and then finished our day back where we had started.

This walking tour does not take in Mother Theresa’s places, so either head up there with a taxi, or save them for another day.

Walking in India is an art in itself.

But I genuinely believe the best of India is seen this way. Comfortable footwear, plenty of water and a large does of tolerance is all you need. Well, and Google maps saved offline on your mobile phone.

Tags Backpacking India with kids, Kolkata, Kolkata self guided walking tour, Kolkata walking tour, Walk Kolkata, What to do in Kolkata

South Asia

Varanasi

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date August 9, 2018

The holiest city in India, oldest continually habited city on earth, and probably the dirtiest place you will ever go, Varanasi, a city straddling the mighty Ganges is a blitz on the senses and far more intense than even the most committed guidebook will have you believe.

Depending on the time of the year you visit, will largely depend upon how you feel about Varanasi. Visit in winter and the Ganges is low meaning you can stroll along the ghats, watch cremations, cricket games, swimming, fishing and a myriad of other activities occupying the lives of locals and pilgrims. Visit during summer/monsoon and the Ganges will be of epic proportions flooding the ghats and making a visit worthwhile, but less rich. This was our third time in the city, visit 1 and visit 2 are linked accordingly.

People come to Varanasi to bathe in the Ganges which washes away a lifetime of sins, I have it on good authority that in fact it is heavily polluted and sceptic in many places. People also come to Varanasi to die and then be cremated on Ghats on the banks of the Ganges.

Watching someone you never knew have their existence removed from earth by means of fire, it’s odd. Almost obtrusive.

Taking photographs is disrespectful and a quick way to escalate an otherwise peaceful situation.

Varanasi is a city you will either loathe, or love. Dividing of opinion, the length of your stay will also likely sway your judgement. The best of Varanasi is located within the old city which is a labyrinth of alleyways populated by pilgrims, lots of pilgrims, cows and faeces. If you are a germaphobe give this place a miss, brutal temperatures ensure you are covered in sweat and both animals and humans empty their bowels in the tiny, stone lined alleyways. Though traffic is banned from the old city you can still expect to see people whizzing around on their scooters and causing chaos. Cyclists also attempt to meander the maze, few have bells or any way to warn you of their imminence. You can most certainly overstay in the city. Tolerance very quickly becomes frustration, 3 days for me is enough.

The old city is a collection of ghats, temples and an amazing place in which to watch self sufficiency. Tools, machines and methods of craftsmanship all but forgotten are still in use. Homestay’s with local families abound and are amongst some of the cheapest in India, 1000INR will bag you a double AC room. Bed only in a dorm is around 250INR.

The best of Varanasi is seen on foot.

We walked through the streets to Assi Ghat, which is the furthest south of the old city ghats, grabbed lunch at the fabulous Aum cafe, then meandered our way along the ghats back to Vishwanath temple. We took a boat ride, these can be got for 50INR per person in a shared boat, or around 300INR for the whole boat for 30 minutes. There are innumerable shrines, temples and places worthy of a visit. Vishwanath is the highlight, tourists can avoid the queue (some pilgrims queue for up to 48hrs), and head straight to gate 2. No bags, or electronics are allowed. Register your passport at the police desk just inside and enter the temple. Foreigners are not allowed inside the actual gold domed temple. Less for the beauty, but more for the significance of this temple built in 1776 and dedicated to Vishveswara-Shiva, lord of the universe. It is apparently plated with 800kg of gold. Hence the large number of security forces in the area.

Keeping kids clean in Varanasi is an endless, somewhat impossible task. We opted for trousers, copious use of hand wash and carried a bar of soap for temple visits so we could wash our feet. In hindsight I wish we had put our boots on, but the mercury was nudging at 40C and we were already sweltered.

Leaving Varanasi is painless as the city is well connected by rail. At the station look for a large brown, inconspicuous looking door on the left hand side as you walk into the main hall. Buy tickets, or relax in the large lounge waiting for your train. Somewhat unbelievably there are also showers available for use.

Tags Aum cafe, Backpacking Varanasi, Boat ride Varanasi, Varanasi, Varanasi with kids

South Asia

Khajuraho

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date August 9, 2018

I first visited Khajuraho some years ago, just after the first rail link to the town had been built. At the time it was a quiet place, reached only by hardened travelers willing to take on bus travel and a hefty, bumpy journey across the north. My previous post talks about how the place is leafy, empty, free of hassle and all but abandoned…… Oh how things have changed.

Stepping out of the rickshaw having traveled from Chatrapur 500INR we were instantly accosted. People telling us we needed tickets, guides, offers of rickshaws, restaurants, hotels, books and fake gold. The scams were instant, and neatly weaved with careful half truths. I had booked a hotel at the Happy House Home-stay based on the very high rating on Booking.com and trip adviser. Expecting to be led to the Home-stay I was to be met with the oldest scam in travel history. The classic “there is a problem at the property so I have found you somewhere else” scam. Turns out, having walked to the Home-stay that it didn’t even exist. The reviews are completely fake and just a ruse to scam unsuspecting tourists to opt to take the alternative accommodation at a higher price.

That was how our trip to Khajuraho started, was the theme throughout, and as we were leaving.

Gone are the quiet streets, gone are the vibes, the train-line has ushered in an era of relentless hassle, aggression, dirt, scams and the worst of our time in India.

Though visitors come for the temples showing kamasutra, yoga and a relaxing walk around the countryside, they are now met with entrance prices that have tripled, guide prices that are the highest in the country, mostly sub par accommodation, food and frequent power outages. Khajuraho is not what it used to be, and most certainly not what you expect it to be.

It is impossible to walk the streets without constant harassment, even sat eating food in a restaurant the owner will join you and try to sell you everything and provide every service imaginable. The word ‘no’ has no meaning in Khajuraho, but when after saying it some 15 or 20 times the person will curse at you, likely spit on the ground and eyeball you with absolute hatred.

Days in Khajuraho are spent saying “no thank you”, avoiding traffic that tries to mow you down, avoiding being scammed, seeing through blatant lies and scratching mosquito bites.

Temple complex

I was travelling with 3 children, and on the day we were there, kids under 15 were free, those over paid full price which is of course, almost 20 times higher than Indians pay. There were so many guides at the entrance, it was impossible to even buy a ticket “guides compulsory” constantly being shouted at me, and insisted at me. They aren’t. Having visited the temples previously we opted to grab lunch at Raja café, a nice little place with optimum views over the complex. And the place we realised we didn’t actually need to go into the complex at all.

The hassle continued to the point of exhaustion, so I decided to grab some bikes for 100INR each, and head out of town to the Eastern temples. These are free, and though not as imposing as those in the Western complex are still worth a visit. Hassles continued at the temple, including someone saying he would steal the bikes unless I paid him. We ditched the temples and rode off into the countryside.

Very soon we were among the Khajuraho I remembered. No traffic, no people, birds singing in the trees, buffalo cooling themselves down in water holes. Occasionally we would see some working in a field, they would wave at us, we would wave back. We passed through a number of villages, kids ran behind us shouting “namaste” and waving, laughing. We found random temples far from anywhere, explored ruins of eras gone by, threw stones in a river, and cycled. It was perfect.

Around 6 hours later we began to arrive back into Khajuraho, sat on my bike at the side of the road having a drink of water, an auto rickshaw driver appeared; “you want rickshaw” he barked, clearly not seeing the bike I was sat on. “No thank you” I replied. “very far, too hot and too far to ride”, at the side of me was a mile marker saying we were 1km out of town. “No thank you”, I replied. “Where you from” “no thank you”. “Mister, I am trying to help you, you are very far”…… And so it was. We were back in Khajuraho, desperately waiting for the time of our train so that we could leave forever, one of India’s biggest disappointments.

Tags Backpacking Khajuraho, Khajuraho, Khajuraho hassle, renting bike Khajuraho

South Asia

Delhi

When in India people will always ask “do you like India”, and my response is always the same “yes, I love India”, and it is genuine. I know India is a tough place to like at times, the dirt, chaos, horns and complete nonsensical rules that make even the smallest things difficult to do. A lot of people vow never to return, and most probably never do. Yet India has a real draw, natural beauty, an amazing blend of cultures, foods, and people. India really is incredible.

Except for Delhi.

Delhi is awful.

Most tourists roll up into New Delhi and before even leaving the train will begin to get a flavour of what is in store. The stench of faeces, especially on a hot day will hit you like a sledgehammer. If it has been raining, a mosquito will assert its place on your leg and begin the sucking you dry of everything you have, something that you will encounter in Delhi until you leave. An Indian guy that speaks great English but doesn’t quite understand the meaning of the word no, will make himself your entourage.

Scams

Virtually every backpacker will stay in Paharganj and if you manage to cross the road from the station without being mowed down by a rickshaw, you will find yourself instantly where you need to be. With one problem. If you have pre-booked a hotel you have been ripped off, if you haven’t, you are about to be ripped off. That really is the theme in Delhi, getting ripped off is certain, but just how much you get conned out of is what separates tourists. Westerners carrying loads of souvenirs, wearing Indian attire and shadowed by a ‘guide’ are all too common.

All of the hotels in Paharganj are dives. And if you have a room at the street side, sleep will be a luxury due to the fact drivers in Delhi are addicted to blasting their horn. No one actually takes any notice, and there doesn’t even need to be any one on front, just random blasts of horns. When you consider Delhi has about a gazillion rickshaws and taxis on the streets it literally just becomes a horn fest. And time doesn’t matter, don’t for one second think Deepak whizzing along at 3am will consider anyone other than his addiction to blasting that horn.

Getting a room is half the battle. Random dudes roam around asking if you want a hotel, desperate for a slice of commission. Use one of these guys but know you’ll be paying for your room, and the guys cut. These folks will not under any circumstances take no for and answer so try not to engage in any form of conversation. They will get aggressive, it happens. When you find a hotel, they will make sure they go in ahead of you claiming they have brought you and seeking some cash monies.

WiFi wont work, and food will likely have you running for the nearest toilet which will of course be a cesspit of epic proportions. Tobacco spit marks down the walls, broken toilet seat, and when you finally have relieved yourself in what is certain to be a sweat box, there will be no toilet roll. Or soap.

Paharganj is essentially a city within a city, built on a tip. Rubbish, flies and dirt everywhere. On a rainy day it is muddy, on a dry day dusty. The flies are hardcore and will hop from faeces to your face without a care in the world. Rickshaws, motorbikes and cars drive down every alley way and seem to take pride in forcing you to jump out of their way, or making it impossible for you to pass. Walking around Paharganj is an art in itself. Not only are you avoiding the traffic, flies, dirt and probably every disease going, but expect constant hassle from everyone and anyone. The classic Delhi pickpocket scam happened to me, you are walking, usually crossing a road and two men stop directly in front of you forcing you to stop and try get past, meanwhile little Sanjay has his hand in your pocket. If you ever see two men randomly stop in front of you, you are being robbed. Obviously, only an absolute idiot would walk around Delhi with open pockets and things in them.

Crime

In fact, following almost a decade of travel in some 58 countries only twice have I ever been attempted pickpocketed, both times in Delhi. And don’t expect the police to do anything. Delhi police are masters of not giving the slightest sh*t about anything whatsoever. They will stand and watch you being scammed, especially at the railway station where scams are so commonplace it’s almost a passage of right. Approach the police in Delhi and you will get laughed at and probably, they will join the scam.

In Delhi virtually every single person in the city is out to scam you. Anyone that speaks to you “Hey, where you from” is doing the whole gain your trust then scam you. Rickshaw drivers will quote you some of the funniest prices you’ve ever heard, from New Delhi to the Lotus Temple is about 16km and should cost about 100INR, certainly in an Uber it is 120INR. Rickshaw drivers will quote eye watering prices rivalling NYC taxi fares.

I love walking and walk almost everywhere, but in Delhi it is so hard due to broken pathways, litter and constant hassle. It is exhausting and even a quick jolly to the shop is fraught with constant scam attempts. If you go to visit a sight expect multi tier pricing where foreigners pay about 20 times more than Indians, expect some random guy telling you a guide is a necessity and when you tell him no, expect him to just try and be your guide anyway.

Add to all the above the brutal temperatures, mosquitos and lack of ability to sleep due to noise and very quickly every day just becomes an exercise in battling exhaustion and tolerance.

The sad thing is, Delhi has some great places to visit, but these are so few and far between that it just isn’t worth it. I urge you to avoid the city, and certainly don’t make it your lasting memory of India.

If you are leaving by train, grab some drinks, some balloons and as the train pulls away from the station celebrate the fact you survived and have left probably the worst, dirtiest, skankiest and most disgusting city on earth.

Tags Delhi, New Delhi, slider1, Worst city in India

South Asia

Orachha

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date August 8, 2018

About as far off the tourist trail as most foreigners are prepared to go, leafy Orachha is a gorgeous laid back slice of Rajput paradise. In many ways this is real India. A small town reached easily from Jhansi at just 250INR for the 16km journey in a rickshaw.

Orachha is almost perfect.

Typically Indian, the town itself is unremarkable, except suddenly, rather than encountering a shake down at every corner, you are waved at, welcomed and requested for selfies. Friendliness abides. It is difficult to avoid the imposing temples around the place, and once you cross the bridge to Raj Mahal you notice behind the stunning Jehangir Mahal. What makes this enclave different is that it is among natural beauty.

Think bushy trees with monkeys, a roaring river, ruins, temples and a paradise lost begging to be explored. Scenically it is spectacular, particularly with a low mist licking the tree tops. Some guide tried telling me Harry Potter was filmed here, a quick search dispelled that myth but it would not have surprised me one bit that such a magical movie was filmed on location in an equally magical place.

Sadly, that is where it ends. And it is with genuine regret that perhaps one of the countries most picturesque places is ruined the second you step inside any of the number of buildings/palaces/shrines/temples. The usual 250INR foreigner shakedown applies with kids aged 15 years and under free. If the ticket is bought at the Raj Mahal ticket office this allows you entrance to every place of interest within Orachha which is a fantastic deal. Undoubtedly the first place you will end up is Jehangir Mahal and it is as imposing as it is beautiful from the outside.

Take one foot over the threshold and the realisation of a run down, badly managed, poorly guarded reality springs to life. Graffiti adorns centuries old walls, names are scratched into any surface possible, spit marks everywhere, broken footsteps and vandalised walls. This building has survived centuries yet recent generations have begun to destroy it from the inside out.

Guards lay sleeping, careless of the irreparable damage being done.

Around the palace area is scope to explore. A path winds past ruins, through forests and down to the river, which supposedly is one of the cleanest in the country, which doesn’t say much as most Indian rivers are sceptic. But there really is opportunity to explore unfettered, an opportunity we didn’t take.

Perhaps the most beautiful of the temples jutting into the skyline is Chaturbhuj Temple next to the white and orange Ram Raja temple. Chaturbhuj has suffered the same recent demise of vandalism and graffiti. Bird faeces is everywhere making the place absolutely stink and adding a real dirty feeling to the place. Views over the city are great, especially looking back over to Raj Mahal.

Cow attack

Having travelled India extensively, Oraccha is a typical town filled with cows, goats and dogs. During our time there I was walking down the road with my kids as usual. My youngest was slightly ahead of me and headed towards a large cow with big horns. I saw the cow look like it was going to attack my son, so I pushed him out of the way and stood between him and the cow.

The cow started to ram me, I grabbed its horns to stop it jabbing me and the kids, it swung its head and threw me off. I hit the ground and as I began to get back up, shouting my kids to run, the cow trampled over me. As I lay on the floor I was trying to grab its legs to stop it trampling me and it kept attacking me with its horns. Locals come out of their homes and shops and started to hit the cow with sticks, they were throwing bottles at it and trying to get it off me. It did stop and then ran off away from me.

Picking myself up from the ground I looked for my kids, they had been taken in by a local and were watching in horror as their dad lay getting trampled by a cow.

I was wounded all down the left side of my body, cut and grazed. Thankfully nothing was broken and I was able to walk away. I would just like to thank the local people that came and helped. I know how deadly attacks from cows can be, and how very differently this incident could have ended. If you go to Orachha be careful, but be aware, you are amongst great people who beyond anything else are just hard working men and women that are grateful that you cared enough to visit their amazing little town and spectacular history.

Tags Backpack India, Madhya Pradesh, Orachha, Orchha, Travel with kids India

South Asia

Gwalior

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date August 6, 2018

In direct competition with Agra, Gwalior is an unimpressive attempt at coaxing tourists a few hours down the line to witness the splendor of its hilltop fort.

Rolling into Gwalior from Agra you will instantly notice less hassle, less dust and more horns.

International tourism, though firmly on the radar of local government hasn’t quite led to the numbers expected and as a result, rickshaw drivers are still their scam infancy, opting to add just a few rupees to journeys rather than all out kaboom a tourist with sky high prices. In fact, Gwalior is one of the places in India that I would advise not even bothering asking for a price. If your journey is around 10 minutes, pay 50 rupees (actual price is 40, but 10 adds a bit of cheese) if your journey is from one side of the city to the other, hand over a crisp 100 rupee note and smile.

Home to a 9th century fort built on a 3km long hilltop above the city, and reached by some short sharp switchbacks, Gwalior fort looks magical. It is, like most Indian forts filled with palaces, tombs, museums and structures. And that is where the comparison with anywhere else in India ends.

Gwalior, still in its foreigner infancy has imposed upon itself a fee structure that keeps foreigners in its cross hairs whilst attempting to rinse them of any spare money they have.

Let me explain. Gwalior runs a multi-fee system. This is completely normal in India and indeed throughout Asia. But Gwalior has gone one step further. It has imposed entrance fees for every single building of significance within the city, and removed child prices. Well, technically it hasn’t removed child prices and anyone 15 or under gains free entry, but I found it impossible to get a child price. Excuses such as “has to be an Indian student” etc were thrown about by men, who almost always spouted the line and then spat brown tobacco into the corner with absolute precision and skill.

The fees within the fort are 25 times higher for a foreigner than a local and this applies to every single building. Perhaps the biggest joke is Jai Villas, a run down looking ‘palace’ in the centre of the city that looks a few centuries past a paint job, a place no one on planet earth has likely heard of outside of Gwalior and clearly basking in its own sense of self significance, spanking tourists MORE to gain entry than the Taj Mahal, one of the worlds 7 wonders.

The zoo, a run down shit stain of epic proportions and legalised animal cruelty society follows suit with 10 ten times the local price for foreigners. The only saving grace is that it openly admits there are no child prices for foreigners, and everyone is skanked the same.

Gwalior is so insistent on fleecing tourists, that if any building even remotely looks interesting, or worth a photograph, it comes with a ticket booth and a charge.

Which always adds extra for cameras.

I was told that Gwalior is trying to attract day trippers down from Agra or those with a night to spare. What baffles me more, is that if you are in Agra and you want to see a spectacular fort, well Amber Fort in Jaipur not too far away. Not only is Amber fort bigger, more beautiful and better, it is fitted into stunning Indian scenery of rolling hill tops and ridges fringed with medieval walls, all of which can be explored.

Gwalior started at a disadvantage, Agra has been attracting tourists for centuries, Jaipur is the biggest hitter of the Indian fort department and Khajuraho is making a lot of sound, all of these places easily reached from Agra, or Delhi. Due to the greed of local government, Gwalior is an expensive destination (for India) that does not justify its cost, and, as a result I suggest you give the city a miss.

There are far better places in this part of the world, most of which either justify their cost, or are cheaper.

If you do head to Gwalior, Hotel Grace is a decent budget stay of a bad bunch, and the Indian Coffee House serves up the best food in the city.

Tags Gwalior, Gwalior with kids, Madhya Pradesh

South Asia

Jaipur

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date August 2, 2018

Jaipur has long been a stalwart on most tourists itineraries that head to India. Just a stones throw, well a long stones throw, 4 hours by rail in fact, from Agra it is the natural choice for those looking for a slice of India in just a couple of weeks.

The capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is a seamless combination of uber modern shopping malls, world class hotels and centuries old forts, palaces and a pink city that is actually orange. Having been previously I knew where we wanted to go, where we didn’t want to and so came up with a walking tour for those that want an amazing day, on foot, taking in most of the cities history. For the most part you need cash, so stock up prior to setting out.

Jaipur trail

Distance: 16km

Time: Full Day

Difficulty: Easy

Start: Bottom of Nahargarh rd

Finish: Water Palace or the Pink City

The walk begins at the bottom of a number of killer switch backs that wind their way painfully up to Nahargarh fort that sits atop a hill offering gorgeous views out over the Pink City. The walk is tough, especially on a hot day/humid morning. Bring water!

At the fort there is a restaurant and a great place to pick up breakfast. If you are new to India I suggest ‘aloo parantha’ (spellings vary) but it is basically potato stuffed chapatti. Cheap, tasty and easy on the stomach.

After spending time exploring the fort come back out and walk along the road sign posted for ‘Jaigarh Fort’. If you are unsure, there will be plenty of guys lingering around who will gladly point you in the right direction. You may get told it is 9km or even longer, it isn’t. It is 5km to the junction then a further 500m to the fort.

I strongly suggest you buy water from Nahargah Fort, there is no shop en route. If you feel like a snack, women sell grilled corn for 10 rupees per cob at the junction.

Walking along the road you will notice that save for the odd car driving past, you are pretty much alone. The trees open up every few hundred metres offering up great views over the city and eventually over the absolutely gorgeous water palace. The route itself is pretty flat with the occasional up or downhill, but very easy to walk as the road is well paved. After around a kilometre you will see a structure protruding above the trees. This is Mandir Sati Mata and entrance is free. Though it seems like there isn’t much to see, if you walk behind the temple you will find a staircase that leads to the top of a great lookout.

Continuing on, and another km down the road you arrive at Charan Mandir, a temple like complex completely empty save for a caretaker relaxing in the grounds and soaking up the sun’s rays. Entrance is free. This is the perfect place to hit the toilet as you will notice from the stench. The only problem is, there isn’t actually a toilet, just a wall stained with decades of urine.

Eventually peacocks start to appear and monkeys begin to look suspiciously from trees at anything loose you are carrying.

Continuing on the road splits, you are at the junction for Jaingarh fort.

You really can’t miss Jaingarh Fort, home to the largest cannon on earth (according to themselves) it is a huge Fort with pretty much nothing inside except for wonderful views, a suspect cannon and a great stop for lunch. Entrance is 100 rupees per adult and 45 rupees for children.

Looking down the hill from Jaingarh Fort you will notice a sand looking coloured, palace type mega building. It is in-fact the world famous, and perhaps most beautiful fort in the whole of India; Amber Fort. The reason tourists have been making their way to Jaipur and a place that spawned mass tourism to the region. Look beyond the fort and notice the wall fringed ridges in the distance. It really does take a second look to realise just how beautiful place you are in.

There is a downhill road from Jaingarh that will take you right to the entrance courtyard of the Amber Fort (pronounced Amer Fort). The cobbled road travels from one fort to another and is frequented by elephants accompanied by monkeys, cows and the odd lost looking goat.

Entrance to Amber fort is a steep 750 rupees per adult and 450 rupees per child. You really could spend half a day exploring the many courtyards, alleys and rooms in the Amber fort. And you may choose to end your walk here. If that is the case, jump in a tuk tuk, ask for a photo stop at the water palace and then onwards to city palace. It should costs about 100 rupees, but you will be lucky to get it for sub 250 rupees.

From the Amber fort come down to the rickshaw park, and follow the steps up behind. It is a steep walk up to the top of the ridge opposite the fort. Stunning views, and a realisation that all the day trippers missed this bit. Descend the same way you came up.

If you chose to walk, keep the Amber fort to your right hand side and head along the road as it winds up the hill and onto the water palace. This obligatory photo stop is simply beautiful and a real piece of India. Kids will show you magic tricks, you can buy good local food, crafts and all at rock bottom (hard bargained) prices. If your legs need a rest you can hop on a camel, or choose to jump on one of the many rammed buses that will spot you and then offer you a standing space for 10 rupees. If you continue walking you are around half an hour from the city palace.

Keep walking in the same direction and when you see the streets to get busy, as though you are coming to a bazaar, and you can see huge city walls ask someone to point you in the direction of ‘City Palace’. Everyone knows where it is, and eventually you will get to it. Once there you are at the heart of the Pink City, close to Jantar Mantar, Hawa Mahal and Iswari Minar Swarga. Here you can take in the best of the Pink City and stroll the chaotic streets.

It will likely be early evening and if you have walked the entire route a good meal will be in order. My recommendation is Peacock Restaurant at the Pearl Palace hotel. Reservations are sometimes needed so maybe book ahead, or turn up and hope. But they sell the most amazing chicken tikka I have ever had, and, since we usually go vegetarian in India it is one of just a handful of places I trust the meat.

Jaipur is probably the most walkable city in the entire country and home to arguably the best of India.

Just remember to pack comfortable shoes, plenty of water and sun lotion.

Enjoy.

Tags Amber fort kids, Jaipur, Jaipur walk, Jaipur with kids, Pink city

South Asia

Crazy Nepali woman attacks British family on Annapurna Circuit, Nepal; My Response by Gemma Wilson

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date January 7, 2018
71 Comments on Crazy Nepali woman attacks British family on Annapurna Circuit, Nepal; My Response by Gemma Wilson

During summer 2017 I was hiking with my stepson in the Annapurna region of Nepal. On that hike I called at a tea shop and there was an incident which I filmed which then went viral around the world. The video can be found here: Crazy Nepali Woman attacks British Family on Annapurna Circuit

Until now I have remained silent at the hate which I have received, the death threats and the disgraceful side of humanity that has been laid bare and aimed at me.

Nepal was, and still is one of my favourite places in the world. Rugged mountain ranges, lush green valleys, immense culture, and some of the softest, most gentle human beings that I have ever met who despite a tumultuous history still find goodness in their hearts. Every day is filled with the welcome of genuine individuals who offer hope, warmth and generosity. Hiking in Nepal is second to none, even following absolute decimation by the 2015 earthquake the Nepalis just put things right and moved on regardless. It is this endeavour for happiness, through poverty, hardship, natural disasters and a ruthless history that really does summarise how amazing the Nepalese are.

You shouldn’t haggle over $1.50

I have travelled to many countries throughout Asia and even volunteered at a rural school in India. Not only do I respect cultures, but I admire the discipline and the hope, and I have never ever disrespected any culture, anywhere in the world. On this website there are images of me dressed in a hijab in the Middle East, with my shoulders covered in temples, dressing modestly on beaches etc. It has been suggested to me that I don’t care for culture and that I shouldn’t haggle over a cup of tea when it costs just $1.50. The issue is this, first of all I didn’t haggle. Though in Nepal haggling is part of daily life and culture, on the trails I never haggle, even in the markets of Kathmandu I feel uncomfortable haggling and rarely do. I am the typical tourist in that I know I always pay over the odds for things due to my nature. Secondly, being overcharged in Nepal is commonplace.

Not due to dishonesty, simply due to the fact haggling is expected,

A price will usually be quoted on the very assumption that you will negotiate to a reasonable price. This is not what happened at the Deurali tea house. On the Annapurna prices tend to be relatively fixed, with you paying the same at all places. At the Deurali tea shop I was quoted three times the price. It is irrelevant whether this amounted to $1.50 or not, there are no ATM’s on the trail, trekkers carry only cash and they carry the cash they think they will need. Stories of hikers travelling with hoards of money just does not happen. If I paid 3 times the price for everything I would have left my stepson and I in a very tough position. The simple fact is, I was being ripped off and I paid it, knowing this. I simply made a comment acknowledging that I knew I was being ripped off.

You had your own mug that was 3 times the size

Not true and one of the early lies given out by the woman. When you hike anywhere in the Himalayas there are certain things you must consider. The main one is health. If I was to carry my own mug, I would also need to find a safe place to clean it every time I used it. What is the point in doing that when tea shops provide cups? How impolite would it be bringing my own cup and then giving this to someone to fill. I think that would be rude. Another thing to consider is weight, carrying my own mug would be pointless weight. I do carry a bottle, it is a bottle that filters the water and does not require cleaning, but protects against any waterborne disease, this isn’t needed for hot drinks as the boiling process eliminates any water borne diseases.

You stayed at the tea house and refused to pay

This was the first lie the woman told. Probably in haste as it didn’t take people long to realise this was impossible since she has no rooms at her tea house.

Getting produce to the village is tough

It is, I 100% acknowledge this. I have seen guys in Nepal carrying weight which is at the limits of human capability and it breaks my heart seeing people have to work that hard for such minimal amounts of money. But lets put this into perspective for a moment. (Despite the fact tea is grown locally)

Assuming a tea bag was used, lets say that 1 tea bag is equal to 2 grams.

Lets say that a local will carry 50kg up to the village. That is a total of 50,000 grams or 25,000 tea bags.

At the price of $1.50 per tea bag, that means the load has a value of $37,500

Considering the current GDP per capita is $2,400, that means that one person, for that one load, carried up to the village a load that would represent an average 16 years of earning for the average Nepali. Now lets consider the porter used a horse that can carry 100kg…

Lets be realistic here.

Also, the teashop runs a porter service.

You pulled a knife on the woman

This is the most ridiculous of all the lies that have been touted by the woman. In a recent video she claims that I pulled a knife on her. When I first saw this response I laughed it off due to how ridiculous an accusation it is, but what has stunned me is how many people actually believe this would happen.

In the Annapurna region the people are renowned for being hard working, for being the type of people that are fierce in the face any challenges. That spend their days doing back breaking work that would reduce most of the world to tears. To even contemplate that any tourist would ever, in the middle of the Himalayas and over the price of a cup of tea, would pull a knife out on a local is simply insane. It is so far removed from any reality that it has dumfounded me that people even entertained this would be true.

To pull a knife, or even pick up a weapon in this part of the world against a local would be suicide, not just amongst the locals, but the police too. I would like to think I live in a world where that simply does not happen.

I hit the woman with my walking poles/a stick

Again, this is so far removed from reality that it is pure fantasy.

The ‘truth’ video

In this video it is claimed that I asked the price, then haggled and then threw the money on the floor. This is a lie, I don’t know anyone that would act like that, it is a complete lie.

It is then alleged that I started filming the Nepalese woman with my phone, this is impossible as I use an old phone due to its a very long battery life and that has no recording capability. I had on my chest a GoPro 5 capable of 4k filming, all I have to do is say ‘GoPro record’ and it starts to record. I did take a photograph of the outside of the shop, I was writing an account of my travels and was going to later write about how stopping here would inflate the price of a drink to three times that of other places. It was in fact this attempt at a photograph that triggered the situation.

It is then claimed I pushed the Nepali woman and then pulled out a knife. As I have already explained this is just ridiculous. I will also add that the husband was there the whole time, at no point did he get involved. If what the woman says is true, he would have. It is then claimed I somehow managed to find a log and attempted to hit the woman. Again, not only is this so far removed from my character, that I don’t believe any tourist would even dream of doing this.

This woman has changed her story multiple times, to the point of fantasy.

The reality of what happened is simple. She ripped me off, I commented on it, paid it anyway and then left the shop to take a photograph of the name. She became angry and tried to hit my phone out of my hands, she then tried to me with a stick which I blocked with my walking poles. I then ran, she chased me and threw rocks before outrunning me and then going crazy over me. My stepson was running ahead as I screamed for him to get help, the trail was along a steep banking that would have meant certain death had I fallen and the man my stepson managed to get was not the woman’s brother as she claims.

I put the video on YouTube to show anyone hiking the Annapurna where to avoid and I still stand by that decision. This woman is dangerous, when I reported her behaviour at the next village people laughed at me explaining that this was commonplace, and she is well known for exploding at tourists, knowing she will get away with it due to the nearest police being far away in Manang. Her behaviour was not unique to just me, there have even been people comment on social media and this video that they came across this woman and she went crazy at them too, and one day I really do believe she will kill or seriously injure someone.

The Nepalese tourism board contacted me, and official statements were taken. They are aware of the danger she poses and I stand by my initial naming of the video: Crazy Nepali woman attacks British family on Annapurna Circuit, Nepal

I hope that bringing this woman to the spotlight and that by showing her actions I have in some way warned others of the danger this woman poses to tourists.

Stay safe on the trails.

Gemma Wilson

Tags Crazy Nepal, Crazy Nepali woman attacks British family on Annapurna Circuit, Featured, Gemma Wilson, Gemma Wilson Barnsley, Mum Barnsley Nepal, Nepal

South Asia

Top 5 things to do with kids in Kathmandu

Post author By Stuart Wilson
Post date September 17, 2016
1 Comment on Top 5 things to do with kids in Kathmandu

The bus rolled into Kathmandu from Pokhara after a long, 7-hour trundle through spectacular scenery. As we struggled along the pot holed road devastation surrounded us. It was in many ways like pulling into a war zone, construction was everywhere, and when I say construction I mean people using wooden scaffolding and repairing collapsed buildings with nothing but hope and homemade cement. Bricks lay piled by streets amongst rubble, coiled metal and dirt.

In 2015 Kathmandu was devastated by an earthquake so immense, it is one of the largest ever recorded. 8000 people were killed and 21,000 were injured. As a result of the earthquake, avalanches ploughed down Mt Everest making it the deadliest day ever on the mountain as 21 people perished. Hundreds of thousands of Nepalese were made homeless as entire villages were flattened, the country was taken to the brink.

Throughout history the Nepalese have faced civil war (it actually only ended about 10 years ago), natural disasters and are ranked one of the poorest countries on earth. But what Nepal does have, is some of the most resourceful, friendly, genuinely amazing people I have ever met anywhere on earth. In addition to this, Nepal is the most scenically, spectacular place on earth. From jungles, to rice fields, to desert and to the highest mountain range on the planet, Nepal is a hiker’s paradise. Further posts will follow, but my wife and son hiked to Everest base camp and then did a second ‘hybrid’ hike into the Annapurna.

Alas, we arrived into what was a familiar city, but seemed completely unfamiliar. I have written about Kathmandu previously, so this is a short round up of what we did…

Kathmandu with kids

The Nepalese adore children and so any visit to the country will be a combination of balancing endless cheek squeezes with the patience of your young ones. Throw into the fray brutal heat, high humidity, crazy traffic, dust, dirt, and a city devastated in 2015 by one of the worst earthquakes in history and you would be forgiven for thinking that Kathmandu has no place on the itinerary of any parent. And it is true, few families visit this tiny landlocked nation. But, for those that chase the most rugged, spectacular mountain range on earth, kids on tow, they will invariably find themselves in the city that boasts a history spanning some 2000 years – Kathmandu.

Most people opt to stay in travel friendly Thamel, it is by far the cheapest place in the city with near wall to wall accommodation to suit all budgets and styles. Double rooms at around $5, whereas we paid $80 per night, for a 3-bedroom penthouse apartment in one of the city’s most exclusive areas, Bhatbetini.

Without doubt, the best of Nepal is spattered throughout the Himalayas, but for a city, Kathmandu has much going for it.

Guidebooks will tell you that Kathmandu is a city to be walked, and we did actually walk much of it, but dragging kids through dusty streets whilst trying to avoid suicidal drivers very quickly becomes boring. For the price of taxis, it just doesn’t make sense. And though every taxi driver will start at 500 rupees for a journey to the house next door, realistically you will pay around 300 rupees for a ride to anywhere in the city.

Top 5 destinations for kids

Whoopee Land

Brand new, and just a 700 rupee ride from Kathmandu in a taxi, the driver of which will have no idea where you have asked him to go, this small, but excitement filled ‘theme park’ is located at the foot of stunning mountains in the Kathmandu district of Chobar. Buses will take you there, but why bother. Home to a slide filled water park, kids rides, statues of superheroes and even a ‘rapids’ ride through Jurassic Park, Whoopee land delivered on every level. The kids loved every minute of it and we spent an entire day there. It is without a doubt the best attraction for kids in Kathmandu.

Adult: 650 Rupees

Child: 350

Prices vary according to holidays, weekdays and weekends, irrespective of which, the entrance is probably the best value for money at any theme/waterpark anywhere in South Asia.

https://www.facebook.com/whoopee.land/

Kathmandu Zoo

Kathmandu zoo receives a lot of bad press, much of it justified. Largely geared around small enclosures and the difference in price for foreigners, this miniscule zoo is a place you really need to think about prior to going. Do you avoid it on principle and give the zoo less income to spend on the animals? Or do you shell out the eye watering ‘foreigner’ price of 750 rupees for adults and 450 for kids. I say eye watering, it isn’t really but when you realise you are paying 8 times more than Nepalese, it genuinely is a slap in the face.

The zoo itself is quaint, at least half a century past a makeover and would probably fail any EU Health and Safety check on every level… But this isn’t the EU, and the zoo allows you to get up close and personal with the animals. Don’t be surprised if a random elephant walks past you or a bear screams for food as though it is screaming for life.

http://www.ntnc.org.np/project/central-zoo

Pashupatinath Temple (with a twist)

Pashupatinath Temple ranks as one of the biggest scams that Nepal offers. But with a little imagination, is well worth the trouble. The most revered and important temple in Kathmandu, Pashupatinath may be central to the lives of the Nepalese, but for tourists, and children in particular it is a hot bed of scamsters just waiting to pounce. At 1000 rupees per person, it is more expensive that the Taj Mahal, tourists paying the price are essentially giving themselves a slap and asking someone to follow up. Especially when they realise that they cannot even enter the temple, and that their fee was simply to gawk from the outside. Fear not. Forget about paying the exorbitant entrance fee, walk through the complex as though you were headed back to the city and on your left you will see a river. Walk down the river, cross the bridge and then sit on the Ganges watching the cremations. How is this suitable for children? Two things. Firstly, there is nowhere else in Kathmandu that you will see as many monkeys. Not even monkey temple (see #4). Secondly, it is sobering to watch how some cultures treat the end of life and kids will really tune into this. It is culture at its rawest, at its most sensually intrusive, it is life changing.

Monkey Temple

Swayambunath Temple is on the hit list of every foreigner’s itinerary in Kathmandu. Perched atop a zillion steps (or at least it seems so) this stunning temple offers up the best views of Kathmandu from the ground. Swarming with monkeys that are more than willing to give you a slap, kids absolutely love this place. Ok, it’s cultural and temples can be boring for kids, but monkey spotting entertains them whilst you immerse yourself in the stunning history of this temple. Candles flicker, monkeys try stealing your things, and the occasional self-righteous European will look at you in disgust for daring to enter his bubble kid in tow. But children can run, climb and be thoroughly entertained in one of the cities greatest spots.

Prices

Depending on who is at the entrance will depend on the price you pay. It is supposed to be 250 rupees with children being free. But the guard determined my 12 and 14-year-old daughters were adults. The passports that had allowed us entry to Nepal were not sufficient evidence for this beady eyed bloke.

Boudhanath Stupa

The most significant Buddhist stupa in Nepal was all but destroyed by the earthquake and that is one of the reasons it is on my list. This once grand, stunning nod to Buddhism is a shadow of what it once was and the only way it will regain such glory is through visitors. There is still plenty for kids to see and do. They can light a butter candle, get lost in the many craft shops, run, play and chase birds. It is still the slice of pristine silence on chill level ten it was; it is just under construction.

Prices

Adults 250 rupees

Kids free

Beyond the list are a million things to do in Kathmandu. With about 5 cinemas, prices are just £30 to watch a blockbuster movie. The city now has a KFC for a western reminder and the streets of Thamel are begging to be walked. People reading this may raise questions of Patan and Durbar Sq., but I cannot recommend those places. They offer nothing for kids and are now charging foreigners $15 entrance whilst everyone else pays nothing. It wasn’t worth it pre 2015 and it isn’t now.

As alluded to at the head of this post, Kathmandu is the spring board to the Himalayas, but with kids, there is no reason to sit around twiddling your thumbs wondering what to do. Get out there and explore this amazing city and portal to the most spectacular landscape on the planet.

Tags Backpacking Kathmandu, Featured, Kathmandu, Kathmandu kids